FAIRY-TALE ADVENTURES IN SURREAL ALPINE REALMS, WITH FAMILY TRAGEDY, IMMENSE PHYSICAL SUFFERING, CONTROVERSY, ENVY – THESE ARE THE INGREDIENTS OF MYTH.


8,000M QUEST


REINHOLD MESSNER WAS THE FIRST PERSON TO EVER CLIMB ALL FOURTEEN 8,000M PEAKS.


1970 Nanga Parbat (8,125m)


A life-changing trip to the Rupal Face, the highest rock and ice face in the world, with his brother Günther. Messner set off alone from the last camp and his brother climbed after him and caught up. By late afternoon, both had reached the summit, and descended the Diamir Face, thereby achieving the first crossing of Nanga Parbat. However, tragedy struck on the descent: Günther was swept away by an avalanche and Messner arrived in the valley six days later with severe frostbite. The descent remains controversial, with the team split over whether the chosen descent was pre-planned by Messner or a spontaneous decision. With six toes amputated, Messner’s focus switched from rock climbing to the higher mountains.


1972 Manaslu (8,163m)


Messner succeeds in climbing Manaslu on what was then the totally unknown south face of the mountain.


SUMMIT#90 | SUMMER 2018 | 47


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62