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DESTINATIONS ADEIDE TO PERTH | AUSTRASIA


ABOVE: Surfing at Cactus Beach


earth nearby in 1979, sparking a bizarre media frenzy that put the roadhouse unwittingly in the global spotlight. But the two most beautiful spots


are on the South Australian side. Cactus Beach, about 12 miles off the Eyre Highway from Penong, is the holy grail for the surfing community. It’s partly about the consistent smooth breaks, but the remoteness makes it special too. A basic campground behind the beach is full of campervans, most with surfboards on top. But the route to get there is spectacular, with pink-tinged lakes either side of the road and high, dazzling white sand dunes on the horizon. There are more of these


arrestingly bright dunes at Head of Bight, where Australia splits in a visually dramatic way, with dunes to the left and massive unbroken cliffs that stretch for hundreds of miles to the right, signalling the true Nullarbor Plain. The Visitor Centre plays host


travelweekly.co.uk There are dunes to the left and massive


unbroken cliffs that stretch for hundreds of miles to the right, signalling the true Nullarbor Plain


to more information about the Nullarbor Plain – a giant slab of limestone, riddled with caves and underground lakes. There is life here too – wombats burrow deep underground to escape the heat and red kangaroos bound along in giant leaps. The 23 native mammal species,


70 reptile species and 240 bird species may not be abundant, but it’s not the barren wasteland you might expect. And, between June and


November, the most noticeable life is whale-sized. Southern right whales come here to calve, and it’s often possible to see several of them from the clifftop. It’s one of the greatest land-based


whale-viewing sites on earth. The further into Western Australia you go, the higher the trees get. Woodland, still relatively sparse, takes over. And then comes the only settlement of any real size between Adelaide and Perth: the gold-mining city of Kalgoorlie. The mine tours, all massive trucks and deep chasms dug into the earth, are a fitting stop along this route. While they are all about man-made gigantism, the rest of the journey – with nearly 1,500 miles down, there’s still another seven hours to go before getting to Perth – is about nature’s, and there’s nothing like a drive halfway across Australia to really appreciate its epic scale.


TW


TOP STOPS EN ROUTE


E Clare Valley: Among several excellent wineries, Mr Mick Cellar


Door and Kitchen offers tastings and tapas-style dining. mrmick.com.au


E Baird Bay: Swimming with sea lions is run by Baird Bay Eco Adventures


and costs £97 for adults and £48 for children 15 and under. bairdbay.com


E Kalgoorlie: Kalgoorlie Tours runs trips into the Big Pit, one of


the biggest gold mines on earth. From £27 for 90 minutes. kalgoorlietours.com.au


E Mundaring Weir: In the Perth Hills, this pretty spot is where


the freshwater pipeline stretching nearly 375 miles to Kalgoorlie starts. The old pumping station displays tell the incredible story of construction.


24 OCTOBER 2019 69


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