DESTINATIONS KERA | ASIA
expert ASK THE
CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: Periyar National Park; Keralan cuisine; one of Xandari Riverscapes’ houseboats PICTURE: Shutterstock
“This trip to the south offers a slower-paced introduction – slow by Indian standards – and takes in some of the regional highlights. Touring in India can be tiring, so I always
recommend building in some relaxation time either within the tour or at the end. Agents shouldn’t be afraid of tailor-made enquiries either. They are not as complicated as they might seem and we are always on hand to help create their clients’ perfect trip.”
Amanda Curry, India expert, Hayes & Jarvis
Kerala is criss-crossed by 550 miles of
canals, lagoons and lakes, and taking it all in by boat is one of the most popular activities
A precarious ride across the lake on a bamboo raft takes us into the jungle. The guide hacks out a path through lush vegetation with a machete, stopping occasionally to point out the sounds of distant macaques or the blue flash of a kingfisher’s feathers. We’re all very glad of the leech socks, as the suckers are, indeed, multitudinous and cling to our shoes and trousers relentlessly. After about two hours roaming
through thickets of ferns, palms and open wetlands (and a few spots of rain), we stop one final time, as the guide points towards a swaying tree right above us, where a family of Nilgiri langur (black monkeys) is hanging playfully from the branches.
travelweekly.co.uk Clients booking this worthwhile
excursion should be given a detailed packing list that includes appropriate trekking trousers, boots, a long-sleeved top and a change of socks, as well as insect repellent and a sense of adventure.
BACKWATERS
Saving the best for last, we drive back to the coast at Alappuzha (Alleppey) and board a luxury houseboat to spend a tranquil day and night cruising Kerala’s backwaters. The state is criss- crossed by 550 miles of canals, lagoons and lakes, and taking it all in by boat is one of the region’s most popular activities.
Most of the boats in use today
were originally kettuvallam – barges used to transport rice and goods – which have been converted into houseboats with an intricate, handwoven bamboo canopy. Our boat is operated by Xandari
Riverscapes, and holds to the same standards of eco-friendliness as sister property the Xandari Harbour in Kochi. Once aboard, there is nothing to do but settle onto the comfy banquettes on the upper deck to watch barges, fishing boats, other houseboats and the lush shoreline pass by. In the afternoon, we dock and
transfer to a canoe for a one-hour excursion along a small canal, which offers a glimpse of life in a rice-farming community. Suraj explains that the area was
badly affected by flooding in 2018, and repair works are ongoing. The canal is barely wide enough for two canoes to pass, and it seems the whole community is out on the riverbank – doing laundry, digging
foundations for new houses, selling refreshments or working in the paddies.
Back on the houseboat, we sit down for a sadhya – a traditional Keralan feast of many colourful curries and dahls served on a banana leaf. The sun sets a brilliant pink over the glimmering backwaters and the stars come out in between the last lingering monsoon clouds. My friends were right: Kerala has been a wonderful first visit to India, and I know that it will not be my last.
TW BOOK IT
Hayes & Jarvis has a nine-night tour, Discover Kerala & the Tropical South, priced from £1,799 per person including flights via Dubai with Emirates, transfers, bed-and-breakfast accommodation and excursions as specified.
hayesandjarvis.co.uk
6 FEBRUARY 2020 77
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