ANTARCTICA


jagged black peak cutting into the sky nearby. As I move into the sunlight, a shock of cold permeates my clothes, my body, my soul. It’s invigorating, cleansing and surreal when coupled ÜiÌh Ìhi Õnin`in} ÜhiÌi Ìh>Ì yoÜÃ Ìo the horizon in every direction. There’s no way to not feel alive and in the moment here, especially when relearning how to walk on the solid, slippery ice. Focus is essential. Following a brief rest at the aptly named Wolf’s Fang Camp for champagne and charcuterie – this is a luxury camp after all – we’re whisked >Ü>Þ Ìo Lo>À` > >ÃliÀ /-ÈÇ oÕÌwÌÌi` with giant skis, which will deliver us to White Desert’s original camp, Whichaway. I’ve only just found my


breath when the bird’s-eye view of Antarctica at low altitude knocks it out of me again. It’s like an ocean frozen in Ìimi] inwniÌi Ãh>`ià ov ÜhiÌi «iÀvoÀ>Ìi` by glacial islands bursting forth from the ice. From that vantage point it would be easy to feel small, but instead I’m imbued with the meaning that comes from connection, from remembering that I’m part of this dazzling planet.


Elite explorers There are no hotels in Antarctica, but White Desert’s movable, modular pod camps are the epitome of hospitality. Whichaway’s capable staff, many of whom are professional athletes, welcome us into the warm enclave of the communal lounge, which looks out over a freshwater


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ABOVE: White Desert’s Gulfstream G550 OPPOSITE: FIRST ROW Penguin colony; pod interior, Echo Camp SECOND ROW Seared tuna meal at Whichaway; writer Ali Wunderman; Echo Camp THIRD ROW Exploring an ice tunnel FOURTH ROW Aerial view of Echo Camp; white chocolate and rooibos mousse Credits: Kelvin Trautman; Andrew Macdonald; White Desert Antarctica


46 ASPIRE JUNE 2023


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