JAPAN


in snow during the winter, leaving behind nutrient-rich water in the spring and ultimately fostering superior growing conditions for the grain to thrive. The result? Perfectly sweet, sticky rice that is renowned for its exceptional taste.


During my visit, I certainly sample my fair share of


the stuff: in small bowls alongside mountain vegetables; Lini>Ìh yÕvvÞ >«>niÃi omiliÌÌiÃÆ >n` in `iliV>ÌilÞ VÀ>vÌi` Àollà ov ÃÕÃhi] wÀmlÞ V>ÃÌin} >Ãi`i mÞ iniÌi>l doubts about just how different rice can taste. One day, we visit Harumisou, a 200-year-old thatched


farmhouse that has now become a bed and breakfast where guests can stay alongside the family who live there. During our visit, and under the expert guidance of Okada Takako and her daughter Maria, we try our hand at crafting sasami zushi, a type of sushi native to Myoko, whereby pockets of rice are stuffed into basket-shaped bamboo leaves and topped with scrambled egg, mushrooms, salmon and wild plants. With us all huddled around a low horigotatsu table, Okada and Maria teach us the best way to fashion the leaves into the most practical shape, and tell us how the delicacy was traditionally a favourite among soldiers because they’re easy to store, as well as how the family hopes to keep the craft of sasami zushi alive by offering these authentic, intimate workshops. The experience, of course, provides a delicious lunch,


however, it’s not just my belly that’s full afterwards, but also my heart, thanks to the warm hospitality we’ve been treated to and the fascinating insight into Myoko heritage that we’ve gained. Niigata’s abundance of rice paddies doesn’t just pave the way for sumptuous dishes either, but also premium drinks, due to the way the grain is fermented >n` ÕÃi` Ìo «Ào`ÕVi Ìhi >«>niÃi Üini Ã>ki° /hi highest concentration of sake breweries in the country can be found here, and we visit arguably one of the most impressive: Hakkaisan, which is entirely devoid of refrigerators. Instead of using modern methods to keep the 360,000 litres of sake it produces cold, Hakkaisan relies completely on snow, utilising the yukimuro technique that sees a thousand tonnes of snow piled into the brewery to maintain a cool 3.1C.


ª 66 ASPIRE MARCH 2026 aspiretravelclub.co.uk Xxxx STANDOUT stays Ryugon


Niigata is home to traditional ryokan guesthouses that offer rustic, authentically Japanese stays


RYUGON


At this 200-year-old manor house, my Classic room is everything you’d picture when envisioning a typical Japanese bedroom: a pair of futons; a gently lit living space with no TV; and a yukata kimono hanging in the wardrobe. There are also three


Villa Suites, which are more contemporary in their design and feature private outdoor onsens. One of the most special experiences Ryugon offers is its Snow Country Gastronomy nine-course meal, which spotlights the region’s culinary customs.


TAMAKIYA SAKE INN


With just eight rooms, this quaint ryokan feels like home from the moment I arrive. The rooms are spacious yet cosy, and modern but with unmistakably traditional touches, the highlight being a private onsen on the balcony. As its name suggests, this


property is serious about sake, and we taste our fair share during a pairing dinner curated by Tamakiya sommelier and owner Yuuichi Yamagishi – the perfect way to warm up after a day out in the snow.


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