~Lister Debut part three~
Lister De-rusting by Rebecca Carson
T
o continue from where I finished the last instalment, I will explain how the de-rusting by electrolysis works. I put a handful of washing soda crystals in to a bucket of water; daddy drilled a hole through four 300mm flat steel bars, joined them up with wire and connected them to the negative crocodile clip of a battery charger and put them into the bucket. We put the head in and connected it to the positive side, switched the charger on and let it bubble all day.
rebore, Daddy gave it a tidy up with the hone. Great news! The parts list was complete and soon a box came from
www.stationaryengineparts.com containing: rings, transfer kit, two sheets of gasket paper, a head gasket, spark plug, HT lead, points and condenser. By this stage, the electrolysis had worked its magic and the water hopper was rust free, as you can see from the before and after photos. Daddy cleaned the parts with the wire wheel in the angle grinder while I painted
Photos above show the de-rusting process
To see what condition the bore was in, we slid a ring down the bore, squared it with the piston and measured the ring gap with a feeler gauge. The standard ring gap of a Lister D should be 8-12 thou, but my engine had a ring gap of 52 thou at the top of the bore, and 62 thou half way down the bore. Daddy did some sums and worked out that the bore was only 3 thou worn, but we needed new rings. When we knew that it didn’t need a
everything with Metalflux. When the Metalflux was completely dry, next to go on was the Bonda Primer. It was red and very hard to wash off the brush. Last to go on was the legendary Mid Brunswick green that we got from Paints and Components in Ballymoney. It's a very good nail polish by the way.
12
JULY/AUGUST 2021
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