Although I could have taken the free bus that runs to and from the 16th Street Mall to my hotel (and would later do so many subse- quent times during my trip), I choose to sling my backpack and hoof it - so colorful and welcoming are the throngs of cowboys and girls - some on horseback or riding shotgun atop ornate carriages, and many of whom are stopping along the way themselves to check out world-famous Rockmount Ranch Wear, which is home to the original snap front western shirt.


I arrive at the Renaissance Denver Downtown City Center, a gor- geously constructed luxury hotel that’s ideally situated in Denver’s financial district. Featuring 221 guest rooms, 6,000-square feet of meeting space, and Range - its full-service restaurant featuring New American West cuisine - the property juxtaposes modernity with the building’s original early 20th century construction as the original Colorado National Bank.


This aspect became no more evident than in seeing the CNB insignia embosses throughout, and by touring its lower level event spaces featuring huge bank vault doors which are now used as artis- tic elements.


My tour itinerary had come with a series of tips that you’ll only find at a smattering of US cities: reminders about Denver’s higher alti- tude/”Drink plenty of water” (to help the body adjust to the alti- tude/monitor alcohol intake), and the notation to get ready for sun- shine-galore since the city sees 300 days of sunshine a year. Sure, back home in Philly it was pretty much the same temperature on this mid-January day, but my chance of a sunburn there would be nil. Here, one mile up, a hat and sunglasses are requisites.


As the brilliant orb begins to set, a blanket of twinkling lights covers Larimer Square - probably the most historic block in town (and the center of the shopping and dining district). I enter Osteria Marco.


Operated by Bonanno Concepts, purveyor of notable culinary ven- tures, including the highly-regarded Luca, Osteria Marco is a casual place with ruddy brick walls, imposing industrial beams, heavy wooden tables and an amped-up classic Rock soundtrack. Jordan, my server, directs me through the deep, Medi-influenced wine list, guiding me to her favorite dish on the menu, the braised rabbit.


With Foreigner telling me “It Feels Like the First Time,” I delve into my initial blissful bites of fork tender rabbit with spinach and ricotta gnudi, bacon flecks, and carrot parmesan while sipping a good Sicilian red. Later, she’ll take time to show off the 30-person Wine Room - great for intimate groups.


After dinner, I stroll throughout the Riverfront and across the LoDo (Lower Downtown) section, finally ordering a Lyft when the rain moves in that takes me to blocks of some of the city’s best nightlife - jazz clubs, speakeasies - even a “gastro brothel” called Ophelia’s.


The soggy weather continues into the next morning, which leads me to discover something really unique about Denver as I’m walking toward a breakfast destination called Snooze - Denverites don’t believe in umbrellas! “Get wet or get out” is, in fact, an unwritten


8­ 6 March z April­2019


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