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SUSTAINABLE


move more freely when you’re out on the moors and you’re doing more active shooting”. Sympatex was chosen for the membrane because,


being made of recycled materials itself, it is more ecologically forgiving than other brands. Not only that, but when Sympatex reaches the end of its lifecycle, it too can be recycled. This new technical


shooting range has been so


successful that Purdey will extend it to womenswear in A/W19. Elsewhere, Purdey has used the common nettle for


its range of holdalls and gun sleeves. Nettles were first used around a century ago in Switzerland to make the iconic Swiss Army Rucksack – cotton was scarce and nettle fibres are actually stronger. “Nettles grow in the wild and don’t need to be


treated with insecticide. Nettle combines with our ethos of durability and sustainability,” says Guegan.


ETHICAL SOURCING Another trend making inroads into Savile Row is provenance and what Huddersfield Fine Worsted calls


‘traceability’. Just as people want to know


where food is sourced from, they want to know that yarn has been gathered ethically. Savile Row has to assume that the actual sourcing of the yarn is conducted ethically by its mills. Dugdale Bros has an ethical code of conduct


when it comes to sourcing yarns. Dugdale says that some of the larger wool growing countries have,


a bit unusual.” Dugdale Bros makes the point that traditional wool is just as


sustainable as newfangled super lightweight cloths. In fact, the traditional heavyweight wools are greener because, unlike, say, new Italian superfine wools, they are much more hardwearing. The irony is that even something handmade in Savile Row


using superfine wool will only last for a decade compared to generations for a robust suit. Someone who needs a lighter weight cloth because of climate


change buys something that doesn’t last as long and will ultimately been thrown away sooner – adding to the landfill, only increasing the problem. Ironically,


the best customers for Dugdale’s proper


characterful English cloth are to be found in Italy – the home of the super lightweight textiles English cloth merchants compete against. Corinne Metcalfe, a clothing designer at Purdey, used to work


in the sailing industry and has noticed the same drive towards lighter, more breathable fabrics when it comes to country sports – partly as a response to our warmer, wetting climate. Metcalfe says that


customers want lighter and more breathable fabrics. Purdey launched its first synthetic membrane into its technical shooting range this autumn. This technical tweed is 30 percent lighter than standard sports jackets “which allows you to


in the past, used questionable practices – such as cutting into fly-infected sheep in a practice known as ‘mulesing’, which has been called cruel and inhumane. HFW is in the process of being able to trace where its cloth


comes from, right back to the exact sheep in Australia – tracing the journey from shearing to yarn spinners to Chinese brokers. It’s the same as proving the provenance of a work of art.


SMALL FOOTPRINT Where Savile Row can really show its green credentials is by using British mills manufacturing locally. This shortens its supply chain and avoids the energy spent importing from China and the Far East. In short, reducing its carbon footprint. Dugdale Bros sources its wool from local yarn suppliers, mills


and finishers within a five mile radius of Huddersfield, which similarly reduces its carbon footprint. Alexander Lewis, brand and business director at Norton & Sons,


says: “We do think about this a lot. As a house, Norton & Sons prefers to work with British-made cloth. We only use foreign-milled cloth if there’s something we cannot get


from a producer- the


weaver in the UK”. “Bespoke tailoring is at very top


fashion producers in terms of


the footprint it leaves behind. The effect that it has on the environment is very different to say, a big fashion brand.” “Keeping our carbon footprint


small is a luxury that a high-end brand such as Purdey can afford. Sustainability is very much in our ethos,” adds Guegan.


SAVILE ROW STYLE MAGAZINE 27 of sustainable


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