CardiffBath
From 1174, when St John’s Hospice was opened, Bath’s
future was assured, though it would be another 400 years before spas became truly fashionable. By the 16th century, visitors were coming from across Europe to “take the waters” in the Hot, Cross and Roman Baths. And by the turn of the 18th century, when Princess Anne (later Queen Anne) came four times, it was without question the place to be. Bath became the epicentre of English society outside of
London, advertising itself as “the premier resort of frivolity and fashion.” The 18th century saw a vast amount of rebuilding and new architecture, and today this beautiful golden city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Eager to find out what hot springs felt like, I headed for
the award-winning Thermae Bath Spa, which cleverly combines contemporary glass with the city’s local oolite limestone, and makes use of the natural thermal springs. The open-air rooftop pool is stunning. With splendid
views of the city, it is heated to 35 degrees Centigrade, and contains more than 42 minerals and trace elements. After a leisurely swim – you can buy a costume there or bring your
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own – there are more than 50 possible health and beauty treatments to try, and a light and airy cafe. But Bath isn’t all baths! For a quick orientation, buy a
two-day ticket for the Hop-On/Hop-Off Bath Sightseeing buses, where excellent guides will regale you with interesting and entertaining facts about the city. One route even takes in the fascinating American Museum in nearby Claverton, which is well worth a visit. Bath owes its beauty today to 18th-century architects like
John Wood the Elder and Younger, Thomas Baldwin, John Palmer and Robert Adam, who built a stunning array of Neoclassical buildings, including Palladian houses inspired by the 16th-century designs of the Venetian Andrea Palladio. The golden limestone means that in the sunshine, Bath looks as though it’s been dipped in honey. The true architectural masterpiece of the city is the
Royal Crescent, a perfect semicircle of apparently identical Georgian houses, high on a hill overlooking the city. At the centre is the Royal Crescent Hotel, where I stayed, luxuriating in its magnificent views and elegant interiors.
BRITAIN 49
Above: Pulteney Bridge, completed in 1773, is one of only four bridges in the world with shops on both sides across the full span
PHOTO: VISIT BRITAIN/VIISIT BATH
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