North Wales
Above: Harlech Castle was built by Edward I in the 13th century as part of his 'iron ring' of fortresses against the Welsh. Ironically, it was taken by Owain Glyn Dwr in 1404. Right: The mountains of the Carneddau (literally 'the cairns') in Snowdonia
T
he secret is out. Cardiff and Pembrokeshire in South Wales may grab all the headlines but, to tap into the Celtic soul of Wales, you have to hit the North. No, really. North Wales has the
widescreen panoramas, the medieval castles and, crucially, the sense of traditional Welsh identity – all without the crowds. With local dialect on the streets and emblazoned across the road signs it feels like another country within Great Britain. But don’t worry: you don’t need to show your passport to venture beyond Offa’s Dyke, the walking trail that marks the de facto border between England and Wales. Just be prepared to see a new side of the country. For most visitors to North Wales, the main draw is
Snowdonia National Park – and rightly so. Wales’ first national park, formed in 1951, is characterised by the diversity of the landscape: think mountains, stunning coastline, cascading waterfalls and ancient woodland. It
North Wales has the widescreen panoramas, the medieval castles and, crucially, the sense of traditional Welsh identity – all without the crowds
14 BRITAIN
boasts superb walking and a clutch of sturdy, stone-built villages, where warm Welsh hospitality is assured. The centrepiece of the national park is Mount Snowdon,
the highest mountain in England and Wales, at an altitude of 3,560ft (1,085m). Hafod Eryri, the fascinating new granite-built visitor centre and cafe atop the summit is building a following now after the initial controversy over its unusual design. The new building replaces the well-worn original from 1935, designed by Clough William-Ellis of Portmeirion fame, which HRH Prince Charles once famously described as “the highest slum in England and Wales.” “I think the Prince has mellowed because the architectural
ambition of the project now matches what he thought was needed for the summit,” says Alan Kendall, General Manager of the Snowdon Mountain Railway. To save the calf-burning yomp along one of the six trails
to the summit cafe, take a ride in the Snowdon Mountain Railway, a feat of Victorian engineering and the UK’s only public rack-and-pinion railway. It is a lifeline for walkers. Some of the original 1896 steam engines still complete
the five-mile climb, taking about an hour to make the journey in each direction and transporting 140,000 passengers each year. The reward for your trip? A spectacular panorama across North Wales on a clear
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