associated by many with the brutal genocide of 1994, where as many as a million of its people were killed over a 100-day period. Looking at the clean, green,
serene countryside of this still predominantly agricultural land, it seems unthinkable that such events could have taken place here. Twenty years later, this tragic time is by no means ignored – evidenced by the 200 memorial sites around the country – but nor are Rwandans letting it hold their country back. Communities seem cohesive – aided at least in part by a national programme that means the last Saturday morning of every month is dedicated to community service, with groups coming together, often to pick litter from the streets. The country is forward- looking, and capital Kigali is modelling itself as a business hub for East Africa, with a $300 million conference centre opening next year. Tourists have tended to venture only as far as the Volcanoes National Park and Kigali, further reinforcing the gorillas-and- genocide image. However, as new destinations open up it’s increasingly evident that there’s more to Rwanda than that. The reintroduction of lion and black rhino to the Akagera National Park makes it a genuine prospect for traditional game drives, and clients can tick off more primates, including chimpanzees, in the southern Nyungwe Forest. There’s even the chance to bolt on a beach stay, on the shores
of Lake Kivu. All this, along with an overwhelmingly warm and genuine welcome from the Rwandan people, makes a compelling case for UK tourists not just to visit, but to extend their itineraries.
l SEE Kigali: It’s in this small, low-rise, low-key capital city that Rwanda’s policy of rubbish removal is most evident – it’s absolutely spotless. Scattered over the rolling hills that characterise the country, it has a pleasant atmosphere despite not being over-endowed with sights. However, the Genocide Memorial Museum is an absolute must for any visitor with a desire to comprehend the tragic events of 20 years ago. Exhibits are well designed and
informative, and for most who come to the country it’s essential, if
harrowing, viewing.
Volcanoes National Park: It’s among the jungle-clad foothills of these volcanoes that clients will have their moment with the mountain gorillas. After a 7am briefing at the park headquarters, visitors are split into groups of a maximum of eight, and allocated a guide, and a family of gorillas to track. After driving to drop-off points around the park, trekking begins, through farmland and into jungle, and can last anything from a few minutes to many hours depending on where the gorillas are based that day. Park staff try to match abilities with treks, giving older and less mobile clients
Kigali Serena
an easier ride. Frailty need be no barrier – those with real mobility issues can pay a team of porters to carry them most of the way on a stretcher packed with pillows and blankets, and just walk the last stretch. Other activities in the park include tracking troops of playful golden monkeys, climbing the volcanoes, and hikes of varying lengths, including one to Dian Fossey’s grave. Akagera National Park: There’s a variety of terrain within this northeastern park’s borders, from plains and highlands to a network of swamps and lakes that has led some to nickname it a mini- Okavango Delta. After a rocky time in the 1990s, it’s being returned to its former glory with the help of conservation agency African Parks. With lion already reintroduced and black rhino coming next year, clients will be able to see all big five here, plus rarities including the shoebill stork. Kamili Safaris’ Tim
Henshall places it near the top of his list of national parks in Africa – a sign that it’s becoming a real contender for classic game safaris once more. Nyungwe Forest National Park: This mountain rainforest is among the most pristine in Africa – it even stayed green through the Ice Age. Visitors mainly come to track the habituated chimpanzees that live here, plus 12 other primate species including black-and-white colobus monkeys, and more than 300 species of birds, 16 of which are endemic. It’s worth clients walking the Igishigishigi Trail even if they can’t pronounce it – it includes a 200-metre-long series of canopy walkways, 70 metres high, giving a chimp’s-eye view of the forest. Lake Kivu: Running along Rwanda’s western border, Lake Kivu is huge. Most tourists head for Gisenyi, where low-key activities include tea plantation tours, boat trips and relaxing on the lake’s sandy beach.
58 •
travelweekly.co.uk — 11 December 2014
TOP TIP Rwanda
introduced a $30
visa-on-arrival for UK visitors on November 1
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