DESTINATIONS — GREECE & CYPRUS
Southern soul
Meera Dattani explores the Peloponnese peninsula in southern Greece
I
t’s not every day the gateway to the Underworld appears on an itinerary. But if it was going to be anywhere, it seems apt that it’s in the Peloponnese region, a land of Greek legends and ancient sights. At Cape Tenaro, the most southerly tip of mainland Greece, a stone cave denotes the Temple of Poseidon, and a half-hour walk across the rocks leads to the lighthouse and a sea cave that is allegedly the mouth of Hades, the gateway to the mythical afterlife. This is one of many highlights of the Mani, the middle of three mini-peninsulas jutting south of the Peloponnese; the others are Messinia to the northwest and Laconia to the east. The region’s ‘must-sees’ are countless, but its
size – at 8,300 square miles, it really is about the size of Wales – means focus is key, as mountain ranges and winding roads can lengthen seemingly short drives. Direct flights to Kalamata operate in season, while off-season, it’s a manageable three to four-hour drive from Athens. Once known as Morea, after the
Greek word ‘mora’ for mulberry leaf, whose shape the Peloponnese resembles, it counts legendary Olympia, the ancient cities of Mycenae, Mystra and Epidaurus, the fortress town of Monemvasia and rural Arcadia among its highlights. Its natural beauty is hard to overstate – a landscape of olive groves and orange trees, sandy beaches and quiet coves, where deep valleys and majestic mountains make driving a dream,
and likeable towns such as Nafplio, Pylos and Kalamata are excellent stops.
l MANI The jewel for many is the Mani, the Taygetus mountains running through it and Tuscan-style tower houses a familiar sight. These defensive structures tell the region’s story, remnants of the feudal wars that continued from the 15th to 19th centuries during the Ottoman occupation of Greece. In the village of Kitta, once home of the powerful Nicliani clan, one tower complex has been transformed into heritage hotel Citta dei Nicliani. Vathia, further south, also has an impressive complex and the desolate but beautiful terrain, with original stone mule paths and
mountain trails, makes it popular with walkers.
The fishing village of
Gerolimenas, near Cape Tenaro, is a popular spot for lunch and sundowners, while north of Kitta the impressive caves in Pirgos Diros can be accessed via a short boat trip on an underground lake. Mani’s main town, Aerópolis, is an atmospheric place with cafes, bars and a smattering of shops, while nearby is the characterful fishing village Limeni. Further up the peninsula, seaside towns such as Stoupa, Agios Nikolaos and Kardamili are summer favourites. Come springtime, the landscape is coloured by wild flowers and fruits, some of which finds its way into the cuisine, such as wild cherry compote for breakfast or mountain dill on fresh sea bass.
11 December 2014 —
travelweekly.co.uk • 53
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PICTURE: REGION OF PELOPONNESE; COSTA NAVARINO; CITTA DEI NICLIANI
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