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in his nearby church of Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza, which is only open Sunday mornings, but is well worth a visit. When you head out from the cen-

ter of Piazza Navona, make a stop at the Renaissance-era church of San Luigi dei Francesi, which is the offi- cial French Catholic church in Rome.

can see this in all three paintings. Heading north on the via della

Scrofa, make another stop a block or so further on at the Church of Sant’Agostino, which is wedged in a small square near the northeast corner of Piazza Navona. Not many people know about this church,

Caravaggio was the original bad boy artist of the 17th century, but how he could paint!

Tis is the beginning of a walking tour that will give you a bird’s-eye view of the Italian painter who’s re- cently eclipsed Michelangelo in popu- larity. In the far corner of the French church, you’ll find three Caravaggio paintings that make up his famous St. Matthew cycle. Caravaggio was the original bad boy artist of the 17th cen- tury, but how he could paint! He used light to create dramatic effect and you

Piazza del Popolo. | Photo by Suzanne Conway

but inside you’ll find Raphael’s youthful fresco of Te Prophet Isa- iah, and Caravaggio’s magnificent Madonna of Loreto. His dramatic use of light and expressive way of capturing the rough and tumble of working class people set him apart from most Renaissance painters. Walking north again, you’ll pass a nice old Roman trattoria, Alfredo alla Scrofa, but my favorite in this

category is a little further along on a tiny side street called Vicolo della Campana. La Campana is a simple family-run place that I always go to for delicious Roman fare. Teir beautifully cooked vegetables and desserts greet you at the door. Te wait staff, who all speak English, are

always accommodating and

will recommend their specialties of the day. A trip to Rome wouldn’t be the same without La Campana. It’s been that way for years. Near the restaurant, the via della

Scrofa, for some unknown reason, turns into the via Ripetta. Nearby, you’ll find the Palazzo Borghese, which is closed to the public. But the

adjacent Piazza Borghese is

filled with print dealers and their stalls. I’ve bought many nice prints here and you can bargain a bit without upsetting anyone. Ten, continue heading north and you’ll find the Ara Pacis, a modern temple

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| Summer 2015

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