La Sportiva Miura VS
Five pitches to go but feet on fi re? For alpine rock you need a high performance shoe that won’t sabotage summit day – like the Miura VS. Don’t be misled by the ‘VS’, this highly-curved design (with Vibram XS Edge rubber) toes and edges with the best of them.
IN THE BAG Andy Cave, Mountain Guide Petzl e+LITE
Everyone loves epics, afterwards. Reduce the chance of starring in one with the insanely small e+LITE emergency headtorch. Weighing just 28g, this lasts 45 hours on a single Li battery.
Petzl Reverso 3
Modern ropes need modern belay devices, like the Petzl Reverso 3 – a multi-purpose device for twin, double, and single ropes. The shaped grooves allow control of different rope diameters and ‘guide mode’ allows simultaneous belaying of one or two seconds.
T
op alpine mountaineer Andy Cave is a qualifi ed Mountain Guide and a motivational speaker.
What’s a typical day for a Guide? It depends on the season: it could be ski guiding, climbing on Ben Nevis, alpine ice or UK rock coaching. I still spend a lot of time doing my own climbing in the UK and abroad.
What’s your next trip?
I’ve got my eye on a new line in the Alps, plus there’s something I want to try in the Dolomites. My next expedition is towards the end of the year, probably South America.
What do you pack for a trip to the Alps?
Petzl Charlet Vasak crampons
Bring some stability into your snow life. This classic 12-point crampon has wide front-points for purchase in snow, a second row of teeth angled towards the front for support when front- pointing, and a third row of points to optimise bite on hard snow slopes. Available in four binding options, the linking bar can be set for fl exible or rigid boots.
OK. My pack is the brand-new Alpine Attack 45-55 from Lowe Alpine, the best pack I’ve ever used – I’m obsessed with keeping the weight down and this pack is so light. Inside there’s a 60m Beal Joker, a Petzl Reverso 3 and a Petzl Hirundos harness for starters. I’d probably be wearing my lovely comfy Asolo Alpinist GV boots (with Thorlo ST socks), so my Sportiva Miura VS rock shoes would be in there (I have elastic ankle loops so I can take off the backs on belays without dropping them). As well as stuff for glacier travel (prussiks, Ropeman etc) I carry gaffa tape and cable ties for repairs. I use a Petzl Tikka Plus 2 headtorch and also carry a stupidly tiny E+ Lite as a spare.
Beal Joker 9.1mm
Like Steve Mcclure last issue, Andy Cave also raves about the Beal Joker – a skinny 9.1mm that passes all the tests as a full, half and twin rope.
£61 Petzl Hirundos
Andy also seconds Steve Mcclure’s vote for the Hirundos, the ultra-light, compact harness with four gear loops.
I eat a lot of fl apjack, homemade (sad I know), and there’d be a 1litre water bottle. A lot of the time I’ll use Petzl Vasak crampons. I have Petzl Quark tools, unless I’m doing something non-technical or on a fast approach across moderate snow
when I’ll use one traditional axe. If there’s deep snow I’ll use ski poles that can collapse and fi t in the pack.
I hate the cold, so there’s a spare pair of gloves (Lowe Alpine Alpinist gloves). A layer of insulation is in there too – normally a light non-down jacket with a hood. If you get cold and can’t do hard moves as a result, everything is lost. Make sure the phone numbers for the rescue team (PGHM, REGA etc) are in your phone and your partner’s! I carry an average fi rst aid kit, you can do a lot with gaffa tape and slings. Remember: light is right.
One piece of gear you couldn’t live without? It’s got to be the Alpine Attack pack.
Gear’s so lightweight these days – does that mean I don’t need to get fi t?
No, It means you can try harder climbs!
What’s more important for alpine climbing: motivation or skill? Both, mixed with a healthy dose of judgment.
Enough about you. How do I start alpine climbing?
Get out as much as possible on big UK mountain crags and sea cliffs – you’ll learn about route fi nding and commitment. Scottish winter is still the best place to learn how to look after yourself in the mountains. The Alps are a massive step up though: the glacial travel and unique weather make it a real challenge for a fi rst- time Brit. Get a solid, reliable partner and build up slowly. If you’re eligible get a place on a Conville course or, if you can afford it, take a course with a British Mountain Guide. Otherwise glean as much as possible from books and gurus.
“GET A SOLID, RELIABLE PARTNER AND BUILD UP SLOWLY.”
Andy is sponsored by: Asolo, Lowe Alpine, Petzl and Beal. Find out more at:
www.andycave.co.uk. SUMMIT ONLINE ALPINE SPECIAL #01 | SUMMER 2014 | 7
PHOTO: ADAM WAINWRIGHT.
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