TECH SKILLS
›HOW TO: CRAMPONS Paul Lewis helps us get to grips with crampons. A
s early as the 16th century, shepherds in the Alps used crampons made from nails fastened to a wooden frame. In the early 1900s, Oscar Eckenstein designed a 10-point crampon – which, with the addition of two forward-facing front points, formed the basis of the modern crampon. Now there are hundreds of models on the market – just what should you be looking for?
Compatibility
When choosing crampons make sure they are compatible with your boots and that they are suitable for their intended use. A good starting point is the popular C (crampon) and B (boot) rating system but remember that not all boots and crampons fi t neatly into one category.
What a bind
A plastic cage at the front and rear (joined by a strap) is commonly used for C1 crampons.
Easier to put on and remove than a full strap system, it’s unlikely to come undone and, most importantly, holds the crampon securely. For C2 spikes a front plastic toe bale and quick-release wire rear binding has become very popular. Providing your boot has a pronounced heel welt – and the sole is stiff enough to ensure a fi rm fi tting – this is a great option. C3 crampons usually have a full front and rear wire bale system which works well with B3 boots with a well defi ned front and rear welt. Many will have an additional
32 | 70TH ANNIVERSARY | FOR BRITISH CLIMBING AND WALKING SINCE 1944
security strap which helps keep the front bale in place whilst front pointing. Whilst these are the most common binding options, there are other innovations which work well – such as the Sidelock system.
Baseplate systems
C1 and C2 crampons normally have the heel and toe sections joined by a fl exible metal bar. This makes them suitable for less rigid boots and the frame less vulnerable to metal fatigue – especially important if you are walking on them. C3 crampons often have a fully rigid base plate that’s perfect for technical ice climbing but isn’t suited to walking far. C3s often allow different front point confi gurations such as mono points or stubby mixed- climbing front points to be fi tted.
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