“DON’T EVEN THINK ABOUT


WEARING YOUR EYE-WATERINGLY TIGHT BOULDERING SHOES.”


›EXPERT Q & A


This issue’s expert is Rob Greenwood. Rob is an alpine rock wad and ex-employee of DMM. www.robgreenwoodclimbing.com


Climbing on the famous Chamonix granite.


Q. Baguette and brie or gels and energy bars? Discuss. A. Both. If you’re just about to engage with some alpine suffering, you want to know that there’s some comfort through eating. It’s good to know your palate. Personally, I fi nd gels a last resort and prefer to keep myself topped up with something more wholesome throughout the day. Q. Any alpine gear tips that you learnt the hard way? A. When I climbed the North Face of the Eiger with Jack Geldard, we both took the same weight sleeping bag: his was fi lled with high-quality down whereas mine, well, wasn’t. As a result, he got a sweat on throughout the night, whilst I just lay there repeating the words, “I’m at the Death Bivouac” to myself over and over again. Words cannot express the envy - and stupidity - I felt for not having invested in something better before setting out on one of most signifi cant routes of my life. Q. How big a rucksack will all this need? A. It depends on the season and how long the route is. For day- long summer routes, I personally use a Crux RK35; for multi-day winter routes I use a Crux AK-47X. It’s worth remembering that now you’re in the Alps, it’s fashionable to strap things to the outside of your bag on the approach. When you start climbing, all that remains inside is a warm jacket, stove, food and water. This allows a much smaller pack to be carried. Q. Hut or bivouac, which is better? A. There’s no doubt that huts are ‘better’, it’s just that they’re not always located half way up a route – and they cost a lot more. Rightly or wrongly, some of the most memorable mountaineering experiences I’ve had have been focussed around bivis. Like them or loathe them, you rarely forget them. Q. 50 or 60m ropes, I can’t decide? A. This is largely dictated by the style of climbing and terrain you have in mind. For routes that involve a lot of glacier travel or ridges, I’d recommend 50m rope: the additional 10m would just be unnecessary and extra to carry. With rock-based routes and longer ice/snow/mixed routes, a 60m length would advisable, since it allows longer pitches and abseils.


›FURTHER INFO BUY:


BMC Alpine Essentials £12 (members)


Packed with information and advice on all the skills and techniques necessary for alpine climbing. www.bmcshop.co.uk


Words: Dan Middleton Dan Middleton is the BMC Technical Offi cer. Happiest when testing slings to destruction on his mobile gear-testing rig, he can be contacted at dan@thebmc.co.uk.


SUMMIT ONLINE ALPINE SPECIAL #01 | SUMMER 2014 | 31


PHOTO: RON DONALDSON.


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