S The central summit of the Breithorn.
route is an easy snow climb that can be accomplished in a short day from the Klein Matterhorn lift. The whole traverse is a longish day from the lift or the Ayas hut but the half traverse is as good a day route as you will fi nd in the Alps. Start at the Klein Matterhorn and head for the classic route on the Briethorn. Then, at the Col Rosa, drop round on the south side and traverse under the Breithorn - you are looking for a snow slope that leads to a col at the start of a series of pinnacles. When you reach the
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Breithorn Traverse, AD Switzerland
hen you arrive in Zermatt it is the Briethorn that you see in profi le as you travel up the valley. The classic
ridge climb on the left side; the route takes a series of dog legs on the left always returning to the crest. There are a number of possible variations but they are all about the same grade. The route eventually leads to the col to the east of the central summit. From here you traverse the spectacular corniced central summit then the higher west summit before you can descend the classic route and head back to the lift.
As a good a day route as you’ll fi nd in the Alps. PEAK POINTS
S Mark Dearnely on the Entreve Traverse.
great day out so don’t underrate it. The peak can be traversed from the Ayas Hut to the Quinteno Sella hut as part of the classic Italian high level route or it can be climbed in its own right. The Quintino Sella hut is reached by taking the lift from Gressoney to Bettaforca, then following a good track and a few fi xed ropes for three hours. The start in the morning couldn’t be more convenient
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Castor, South Ridge, PD Switzerland / Italy
hen viewed from Zermatt, Castor is overshadowed by its mighty neighbour, Liskam, but it is a
with the glacier starting just behind the hut. Follow the glacier to Felekjoch left and follow the south ridge. The route is all on snow giving spectacular views and great positions. After enjoying the summit retrace your steps back to the valley.
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PEAK POINTS All on snow with spectacular views.
Mont Blanc, Entreve Traverse PD+/AD- France
he Mont Blanc massif has so many great routes it is hard to pick one. The Traverse of the Entreve on the
Italian side of the Vallee Blanche is one of my favourites. Take the lift to Punta Helbronner (work is going on at the moment to replace the lift but it’s still open) then follow the glacier round to the Col d’Entreve between the Entreve and the Tour Ronde. Depending on conditions you may take your crampons off here. Follow the crest of the ridge - the rock is great and there are bolts anywhere you may want them. The route climbs then moves horizontally before coming to a notch. You can down-climb this awkwardly or scramble down a ramp on the south side to reach the same point. When you leave the summit, scramble along the ridge then down a groove to where the ground becomes steeper. A couple of abseils (the anchors are not that obvious) take you back to easier ground. Follow the ridge with the odd detour on the side to where it steepens, depending on the conditions you can either drop off the left of the ridge or go straight on - both options involve down-climbing. Once on the glacier head back round to the lift.
R The impressive South Ridge of Castor.
PEAK POINTS One of the best routes on Mont Blanc. SUMMIT ONLINE ALPINE SPECIAL #01 | SUMMER 2014 | 19
PHOTO: BRUCE GOODLAD.
PHOTO: BRUCE GOODLAD.
PHOTO: BRUCE GOODLAD.
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