S Paradise: the summit of Gran Paradiso.
1 G
Gran Paradiso, F Italy
ran Paradiso (4,061m) is the highest mountain that lies entirely within Italy, and a great introduction to the
higher peaks. It sits in the Gran Paradiso National Park, where development is controlled and there is a wild unspoilt feel. Two huts service the mountain - the Chabot and Vittorio Emanuelle. The routes from both huts join high on the mountain and the level of diffi culty is pretty similar. The Chabot route is more heavily glaciated and the crevasses can become quite open later in the summer but early in the season(June – mid July) it's no problem. My favourite route is to start from the Chabot hut, then
descend to the Vittorio Emanuelle hut, traversing the mountain. On both sides the route involves movement on glacial terrain then a scrambly ridge to the summit. It’s possible to make a short abseil from just after the summit then traverse back to the ascent track under the summit block. Gran Paradiso is a popular summit and can be busy.
A great introduction to the higher peaks. PEAK POINTS
“One of my favourite peaks in the Valais Alps. A wonderful walk to a great hut followed by a splendid ridge to the summit which gives stunning views.”
KENTON COOL, MOUNTAIN GUIDE
2 Alpine Grades
F (facile - easy) PD (peu diffi cile - somewhat diffi cult) AD (assez diffi cile - fairly diffi cult) D (diffi cile - diffi cult) TD (très diffi cile - very diffi cult) ED (extremely diffi cult)
and offers two very contrasting faces. On the north side the mountain has steep glacial terrain accessed from ski lifts, and on the other a fun rocky scramble from a beautifully-positioned hut that can only be reached on foot. This south ridge begins with a walk-in to the Allmageller hut, which has recently been refurbished and extended, offering a very comfortable night. From here, follow a track through boulders and slabs to the Zwischbergen Pass. Next you can follow the southeast ridge directly, or more commonly drop into the right side
T
Traverse of Weissmies, PD Switzerland
his has to be one of my favourite routes at its grade in the Alps. The Weissmies sits above the Saas Valley
R The wonderful Weissmies.
and climb the snow until you fi nd an easy place to join the ridge. Follow the crest of the ridge, which changes from rock to snow. The traverse continues down the west ridge then drops down through a steep but short ice fall. This is not a place to linger as the route is threatened by a number of seracs. The steep ground gives way to an easy-angled but crevassed glacier, which you cross to reach the top of the ski lifts at Hohsaas.
PEAK POINTS The best PD in Switzerland?
SUMMIT ONLINE ALPINE SPECIAL #01 | SUMMER 2014 | 17
PHOTO: BRUCE GOODLAD
PHOTO: BRUCE GOODLAD.
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