10 ALPINE PEAKS
“The summit will be etched in your mind forever but keep something in reserve for the descent, the south ridge can be challenging and long even in descent.”
KENTON COOL, MOUNTAIN GUIDE
S Andy Ball approaching the summit of the Eiger.
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about but never set foot on. However, the traverse of the peak is achievable for most competent alpinists. It's best done by climbing the Mitallegi Ridge then descending the south ridge. Take the Jungfraujoch railway to Eismeer, where you can access the glacier. The route to the Mittaleggi hut is not the easiest to fi nd – ask the hut guardian if you're not sure. The route from the hut couldn’t be easier to fi nd though - come out of the hut and follow the crest of the ridge. There are deviations but these are obvious. There isn’t much fi xed equipment until you reach the fi xed ropes on the upper tower. The fi nal snow crest to
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Eiger Traverse, D Switzerland
he Eiger is an iconic mountain - its north face is a thing of legends that many climbers will dream
the summit is as spectacular as anything you will fi nd in the Alps. Descending the south ridge allows you to abseil over most of the diffi culties (a 50m rope will do). For a descent route there is a surprising amount of ascent as the ridge has plenty of crenellations before the fi nal pull up the glacier to the Monschjoch Hut. If you are quick you can get the train back to the valley but it is nice to relax spend the night in the hut and climb the Monch the following morning.
PEAK POINTS
A great route for competent alpinists wanting to get their hands on the Eiger.
R The soaring summit of Piz Bernina.
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lifts, the area has a relaxed feel. Mont Blanc du Cheillon is a great peak offering perfect routes for those looking to climb their fi rst PD or AD. The south-west ridge from the Dix Hut is as good a PD as you will fi nd - an ascent on the snow to the Col du Cheilon followed by a rocky ridge, glacier section then fi nally a narrow mixed ridge to a perfect summit. If you have climbed up this way it makes sense to descend the same way. If you want to up the grade a bit then the traverse of the mountain is perfect. You
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Mont Blanc de Cheilon Traverse, PD/AD Swizterland
rolla is the area where many Brits cut their alpine teeth. There are lots of great peaks and, having no summer
can start from the Dix Hut but I prefer to start from the Vignettes as it is higher and you can traverse the Pigne d’Arolla on the way (which doesn’t add any time). Leaving the Col Serpentine, climb steep snow then a horizontal rock ridge to a drop. The guidebook talks about an abseil anchor here but it has always looked a bit suspect to me so I have climbed down and round the steepening on the left. When you have regained the ridge just follow the crest. The rock is generally good and the positions superb. When you reach the summit descend the south-west ridge then pass the Dix Hut, head over the Pas de Chevre and back to Arolla.
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Piz Bernina AD Switzerland
he Bianco grat on the Piz Bernina, rising majestically to the summit of the most easterly 4,000m peak, is
one of the most famous snow crests in the Alps. All the pictures you see are of the famed snow arête but this is just part of the route. The fi rst bit of the route can be diffi cult to fi nd in the dark so a thorough inspection the previous afternoon is worthwhile. Once you have ascended the glacier you need to climb to the Fuorcla. This is on steep snow early in the season but when the snow melts out there is a lot of loose rock. A via ferrata has been built on the rocks to the left of the col, making access easy. Above the col, rock on the side and the crest of the ridge leads to the snow crest - you want to have checked before embarking on the route that this section is snow. If the snow has turned to ice the whole thing will be signifi cantly more diffi cult and scary. At the top of the snow the route returns to rock - this is often dry but can be mixed and is a lot more involved than the guidebook suggests. It is possible to climb the route and make it back to the lift at Diavolezza but it is more enjoyable to stay at the Marco Rosa. The next morning you can enjoy the traverse of the Piz Palu before taking the lift to the valley and the train back to your car.
PEAK POINTS
R Mont Blanc de Cheilon in Arolla: a great place to cut your alpine teeth.
Perfect routes for those looking to climb their fi rst PD or AD.
PEAK POINTS
Climb one of the most famous snow crests in the Alps.
18 | 70TH ANNIVERSARY | FOR BRITISH CLIMBING AND WALKING SINCE 1944
PHOTO: ALEX MESSENGER.
PHOTO: BRUCE GOODLAD.
PHOTO: BRUCE GOODLAD
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