ARTEF A C TS
#10 Joe Tasker’s
ice axe
When ambitious talent meets cutting-edge technology, the combination can rock the world. In the 1970s, Joe Tasker had the ambition; American climbers Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost provided the technology. The result? A landmark moment in alpine-style Himalayan climbing.
R The axe, plus Joe, on the summit of Dunagiri.
Joe Tasker was one of the most skilled British mountaineers of the 1970s and early 1980s. Ascents such as the Walker Spur and the North Face of the Eiger led to expeditions to Changabang, Kangchenjunga, K2, Kongur and – fi nally and fatefully – Everest.
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This axe was designed by American climbers Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost. It was manufactured by Interalp-Camp, probably in Italy.
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Joe used it on his stand-out ascent of the South-East Ridge of Dunagiri (7,066m). In early October 1975, Joe and his regular climbing partner Dick Renshaw spent 11 days on the route – now widely regarded as a landmark in alpine- style Himalayan climbing.
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This early model had a hickory shaft. For strength and weight reasons, this was later changed to laminated bamboo and, eventually, aluminium.
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At the time it was a radical piece of equipment and the axe of choice for technical ice. However, the relentless pace of equipment development quickly creates museum pieces out of even the most radical design.
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Joe Tasker disappeared on 17 May 1982. He was last seen with Pete Boardman, at around 8,250m on the North-East Ridge of Everest. Their deaths marked the end of a remarkable era in British mountaineering. His body has never been found.
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Looking back, it is amazing that this axe and its accompanying Chouinard hammer produced routes of such diffi culty. Maybe talent counts for more than technology?
INFORMATION
Joe Tasker’s ice axe was taken from the Mountain Heritage Trust (MHT) archive. MHT is the archive arm of the BMC. See
www-mountain-heritage.org.
Words: Jerry Lovatt. Photo: Alex Messenger. Thanks to: Maxine Willet
SUMMIT ONLINE ALPINE SPECIAL #01 | SUMMER 2014 | 11
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