Crampon type


C1 • Flexible crampons designed to fi t walking boots.


• Heel and toe units linked by fl exible metal bar.


• Usually 10 or 12 points (may not have front points).


• Typically fasten with straps or a plastic toe and heel cradle and strap combination.


C2


• General purpose 12-point mountaineering crampons.


• Heel and toe units linked by a fl exible metal bar.


• 10 vertical points and 2 horizontal points.


• Typically fasten with a plastic toe and heel cradle and strap combination or a toe cradle and heel clip system.


C3


• Technical crampons designed for climbing steep ice.


• Rigid design offers stable platform for foot.


• Will often have vertical front points for steep ice effi ciency and may allow changing to mono points.


• Will usually have 12 points (or often more).


• Typically fasten with heel clip and either plastic toe cradle or wire bail front clip.


›EXPERT Q & A


This issue’s crampon expert is Dan Middleton. Dan is the BMC Technical Offi cer and what he doesn’t know about sharp, spiky things isn’t worth knowing. Contact


him at dan@thebmc.co.uk. Boot type


B0 • 3 season leather and/or fabric walking boot.


• Flexible sole means they are not suitable for crampon use (crampon may easily become detached from the boot and also the fl ex in the sole places a lot of strain on the heel to toe unit connection bar).


B1


• 4 season hill walking boots with a semi- stiffened sole.


• Durable and supportive upper often made from leather or a leather and fabric combination.


• Suitable for use with C1 crampons.


B2


• 4 season mountain boot with an almost fully stiffened sole, high supportive ankle and thicker, more insulating uppers.


• Suitable for summer/ winter hill walking and easy climbing.


• Suitable for use with C1 crampons but optimised for use with C2.


B3


• A totally rigid leather or plastic mountain boot.


• Optimised for C3 crampons but can also be used with C1 and C2


Q. Can I use my aluminium lightweight crampons on a winter traverse of the Aonach Eagach ridge? A. Yes, but don’t expect much of the spikes to remain by the end if it’s under normal conditions! Save those alloy crampons for those who really need them – skitourers and adventure racers. Q. How do I check my crampons for cracks? A. thorough check by eye in good light is a start. Pay particular attention to any holes and to where the front points meet the frame. Ideally though, you’ll examine them with a magnifying glass since dangerous cracks may not be visible to the naked eye. Q. Which are best: vertical or horizontal front points? A. For steep ice and harder mixed climbing, a vertical mono-point is a total winner. For easier mixed ground, snow and general crud, traditional horizontal points are better. Q. Can I wear fl exible crampons on my approach shoes? A. There are crampons around which are fl exible enough and have completely separate front and rear bindings so they stay secure even on very fl exible boots and shoes. These are great for nipping across a snowpatch onto an alpine rock route, but the shoe/crampon combination doesn’t provide enough support for the varied terrain found when mountaineering or winter walking for the day. Q. My old crampons don’t have anti-balling plates. What can I do? A. You can make your own. Cut out some plates from empty plastic milk cartons, and with the help of some duck tape, voila!


Fitting


Making sure that your crampons are well fi tted to your boots is vital – take your boots when buying. The golden rules to remember are that the crampon should be a snug fi t around your boot sole and there should be no movement in the system when they are tightened up. Anti-balling plates are essential: some crampons ‘ball up’ more than others but they all ball up to some extent and having balls of snow welded to the bottom of your feet is a major danger.


Caring for your spikes


Inspect your crampons regularly for cracks and damage: check the frame, bindings and fi ttings. At some point you’ll need to sharpen your crampon points. If you’re


using them for general hill walking and mountaineering you can run them a little blunter without adversely affecting their performance, but if you’re climbing steep ice routes then you’ll want those points razor sharp. Use a hand fi le, as an electric grinder can affect the temper of the metal. It’s better to hold them in place with a clamp or vice – don’t try honing them in a car en-route to Scotland!


Finally, remember that crampons do sometimes break even with regular inspections. Carry a simple repair kit including a long strap and buckle, a


multitool with pliers and screwdriver, duct tape, a few long cable ties, a few suitably sized nuts and bolts and a length of durable bendy wire.


›FURTHER INFO BUY:


Crampons and Axes £4 / £2.50 members


BMC booklet covering all the essential crampon and axe information. www.thebmcshop.co.uk


Read more about crampons www.thebmc.co.uk/crampons-for-walkers-and-climbers


Words: Paul Lewis is the owner of mountain adventure and training specialists Peak Mountaineering. Paul offers a 10% discount on all courses for BMC members. Find out more at www.peakmountaineering.com / 07840 187735.


SUMMIT ONLINE ALPINE SPECIAL #01 | SUMMER 2014 | 33


PHOTO: SHUTTERSTOCK.


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