Beauty - Hyperpigmentation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Skin & Tonic


Uneven skin tone is a concern that affects many throughout the year. But when warmer seasons see clients turn to lighter tinted make-up options, a treatment to help skin appear more flawless is often requested.


Discolouration of the skin can be due to hyperpigmentation and should be treated using current technologies and product developments.


From the source Hyperpigmentation occurs due to overproduction of melanin - the pigment in our skin.


When skin is exposed to UV rays, the tyrosinase enzyme within melanosomes, housed within melanocytes, turn tyrosine into melanin. This is then transported through the walls of the melanocyte to the keratinocytes, which make up around 90% of our skin cells, in a process called melanogenesis. Here, the melanin rests over the keratinocyte’s nucleus, absorbing and reflecting UV rays, protecting the cell from damage.


This process causes our skin to darken, which is why we tan during Summer.


During desquamation or exfoliation, the skin sheds and is renewed, returning back to its normal state.


While this process starts as part of the skin’s own protective mechanism, “abnormal pigmentation can occur through too much sun exposure, hormonal disturbances, medications, light treatments, cosmetic treatments, injury and autoimmune disorders,” explains Dearbhla Brennan of VClaire Products.


“Hyperpigmentation includes freckles – a reaction to sun exposure, often seen on fair skin but freckles can occur on many ethnicities; age spots (lentigines / keratosis) from repeated UV exposure, change of pigment deposition as we age and Melasma / Chloasma or contraceptive pill – darkened areas through hormonal imbalances,” Dearbhla continues. Other examples of this skin condition include post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation whereby darkened areas of skin occur after inflammation – the most obvious example of this being Acne.


While this can arise in young skins, it is more likely to be seen as the skin ages, when melanocytes become unevenly distributed throughout the skin and regulation is less controlled by the body.


Preventative care Before the treatment, always advise clients about preventative methods for protecting skin against contributing factors, as nothing will be achieved if the root cause still remains. It’s imperative to emphasise the importance of wearing sun protection and avoiding overexposure – one of the most common causes of skin discolouring.


“Whether you already have sun damage or not, it is essential that you wear a high factor broad spectrum SPF daily. If you have sun damage already this will prevent it from getting worse. If you don’t have any it will prevent it from forming,” says Beauty Trainer, Linda Ennis.


If medication or hormonal triggers are more of a cause for concern, advise clients to consult their doctor, where switching or beginning a prescription may be possible.


The treatments After skin assessment, personalise your recommendations for treatment. One of the most effective technologies used is Microdermabrasion. This process exfoliates the top layer of the dermis, revealing newer, brighter skin underneath.


It is important for us to protect our skin from the sun’s harmful rays through wearing SPF and protective clothing.


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Other technology options include Laser and IPL. “These are available in clinics. They


treat the skin with quick and powerful flashes of light. The light energy then penetrates below the skin’s surface, where the unwanted brown pigment (melanin) lives,” says Clare O’Hanlon, Business Development Manager for Juliette Armand Skincare Ireland. As light is attracted to darker areas, you may find that this process works more effectively on fair-skinned clients.


For more topical options, chemical peels, products and supplements offer an alternative. These can be incorporated into facials within your salon or retailed for home use.


Combination therapy is one of the most effective product methods. Typically this includes a tyrosinase inhibitor to prevent the production of melanin, such as hydroquinone; an exfoliator to increase cell turnover, usually in the form of an acid and a melanogenesis inhibitor, such as niacinamide. These are sometimes combined with absorption enhancers such as Kojic acid.


Acids such as AHAs are very beneficial in treating uneven skin colour as they help with exfoliation. “Examples of AHAs are Glycolic and Lactic acid. AHAs help remove the build-up of dead surface cells already stained with pigment, thus lessening discoloration. Vitamin C is always great for treating hyperpigmentation [too],” says Audrey Heffernan of Hennessy Hair and Beauty Supplies. This can be found in product and supplement form.


“Vitamin C supplements can help reduce the level of melanin in the body. The Ascorbic acid contained in vitamin C is a tyrosinase inhibitor which reduces melanin production and encourages cellular renewal, while it’s powerful antioxidant properties help to neutralise free radicals and slow down photo-ageing by protecting the skin from the sun’s ultra violet rays,” reveals Lorraine Perretta, Nutritional Therapist and brand Manager for Advanced Nutrition Programme.


Other beneficial ingredients include Liquorice, Arbutin, Green Tea and Bearberry which inhibit the production of melanin.


By making a careful choice of treatment for use in the salon or at home you will see effective results, helping relieve your client of self-consciousness about their complexion.


Please turn the page to see a selection of the latest products and machines available to help you treat hyperpigmentation in your salon…


Image © iStock.com/plprod


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