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Conscientious Care of Young Skin


In treating adolescent skin, including juvenile acne, it is important to take into


account the sensitive nature


of this skin as it undergoes several changes, many of which are caused by hormones.


An p.acnes


increase in sebum along with bacteria


However, in all cases regardless


is likely to occur. of


the person’s age, inflammation is the main and causal factor in acne. The beginning of a pustule is all about inflammation. Bacteria and sebum are secondary to inflammation. In short, there is enough evidence


showing


that inflammation in the skin is the occurrence that triggers the process of acne. The consequences of that initial inflammatory damage then cause the formation


of comedones, pustules


and papules. Subsequently, excessive sebum and keratin block the pore. Inflammatory damage to squalene (a fatty acid) consumes oxygen from the blocked pore, which then opens the door so that p. acnes bacteria colonize in the pore.


This ‘initial inflammatory insult’ can come from many


causes poor dietary habits including


hormones, stress, digestive problems, and


including


gluten, dairy, and excess sugar. For this reason it is so important, for all types of skin, diseases of the skin, and age of the person, to include powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredients in the care of the skin, helping to cope with the inflammatory cascade.


In cases where the acne is prevalent, there are ingredients that outperform benzoyl


associated


peroxide, with


BPO,


without the and


risk which


prevent the actions of acne, such as inflammation, hormonal pathways, and help with wound healing. These include plant based ingredients like green tea, turmeric, nettle, witch hazel, cinnamon and wild marjoram. Various vitamins and minerals are also very effective


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in the treatment of juvenile acne and various degrees of acne vulgaris and offer benefits to maintain the health of young skin. Look for niaciamide (B3), sodium ascorbyl phosphate - a gentle form of vitamin C, and zinc, which is vital for wound healing.


Excessive exfoliation or peeling can be harmful for young skin and hinders the barrier function of the skin. If the inflammation is minimal, and there are no open wounds or pustules, the periodic use of a gentle scrub, made only with jojoba pearls, is appropriate. Enzymatic peeling provides the perfect professional


exfoliation method. In


cases where comedones and acne are present, the use of salicylic acid is the best choice among the many AHA or BHA options, as it also provides anti- inflammatory benefits.


Maintaining hydration at all times, as well as high levels of squalene and


essential fatty acids, is essential. Oils such as sunflower and safflower in moisturizers provide these benefits and are not only noncomedogenic, but they actually prevent the formation of microcomedones.


And don’t forget to educate young customers


on the importance of


sun protection by using a physical sunscreen every day such as zinc and titanium dioxide.


Krista McKowen Krista McKowen is a licensed esthetician and educator with over thirty years of industry experience as a spa owner, clinic director, instructor


and writer. Krista


integrates her clinical and holistic background in her comprehensive training. She is an International Educator for BiON Research Skin Care.


myskinexpert@gmail.com kristamckowen@bionresearch.com


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