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Resident Wine Expert


enjoy both the tangible and the perhaps more hidden benefits of all the hours spent in the vineyard, the terraces are being rebuilt and, in fact, Saint-oseph is expanding at a time when other French vineyards are contracting.


To harp back to Cave de Saint-Desirat, this is a co-operative that makes wine from the grapes of around 250 growers, they have also spent the past few decades replanting one of the most spectacularly sited Saint-Joseph vineyards, called Rochevine, near the village that gives the winery its name. It now produces superb single-vineyard Saint-Joseph from Rochevine, proving that co-operatives – often looked down on or snubbed by 'connoisseurs’ – can also produce luxury wines.


Other good sources of Saint-Joseph are the big merchant houses of the Northern Rhône, including Guigal (a particular favourite of mine), Chapoutier and Delas, all of which tend to produce several quality levels of wine from the appellation. The wine is usually made from grapes bought from outside suppliers and whilst reliable, can lack a bit of character. The top cuvées however from these merchants’ own vineyards – for example, Delas's Sainte- Epine, Chapoutier's Les Granits and Guigal's Vignes de l'Hospice – are, quite rightly, often considered to be some of the greatest wines of the Rhône, though to be fair, the prices reflect this.


Among the smaller growers, look for names like Coursodon, Durand, Andre Perret, Aurélien Chatagnier and Bernard Gripa. Coursodon, in particular, is considered an ambassador for Saint-Joseph, making wine only from this appellation, wine that routinely rivals the best of Côte-Rotie or Hermitage.


It is true that many of the best Saint-Joseph wines seem to come from the southern end of the area, that is to say around the original


vineyard parcel that gave the appellation its name and also around the towns of Tournon and Mauves. Coursodon, Guigal, Chapoutier and others all have vines here, however, there are other small areas of excellence further north, including around the village of Malleval, where Pierre Gaillard is based. The wines of southern Saint-Joseph tend to be more structured and perhaps a little hard if drunk too young. Gaillard prefers to make his wine in a fruitier, more approachable style. His white Saint-Joseph is made entirely from Rousanne, which results in a more floral and honeyed wine than if it were made from Marsanne (which is the white grape that many other producers prefer to use) and his reds are softer and less tannic than those made by some producers in the north.


Finally…I hear you say...finally the conversation has moved onto grapes! It's one of the relatively straightforward things about Saint-Joseph! The reds, which account for the vast majority of wine produced, are all made from the Syrah grape. The whites consist of two varieties, Marsanne and Roussanne, either alone or as a blend.


While Syrah, also known as Shiraz, has been planted widely throughout the world in recent decades, the Syrah of the Northern Rhône will always, in my humble opinion, be the 'benchmark' for quality. Northern Rhône Syrah is restrained, elegant, often with a peppery intensity, which given time, opens up to reveal complex, almost floral flavours and spices.


Therefore...a cold, winter’s eve, roaring log fire, fat squashy sofa, episode of Downton, bottle of Saint-Joseph, small slivers of a good, salty cheddar – it's like the pieces of a wonderful puzzle all coming together at once...


Sante Win Win Win


For your chance to win a mixed case of wine simply answer the following question:


Q. Name the two white grapes used to make white Saint-Joseph.?


Answer and full contact details on a postcard to: Live 24-Seven, PO Box 5258, Coventry, CV4 OGA or email your answer and full contact details to nfo@live24-seven.com Closing date is 30th November 2013, there is no cash or prize alternative, the MD’s decision is final and employees of Live 24-Seven are not permitted to enter.


In other news...


I have a granddaughter!! My first…a beautiful, exquisite little bundle of loveliness. Her name is Lila and I make no apologies for adding to my column all my love and congratulations to her mum and dad (daughter Lycia and her partner Warwick). I intend to be a very bad influence (in the best possible way) on her as she grows up!


When...I wonder...would it be acceptable for her to have her first glass of wine! Answers on a postcard please...


I'm off to hunt for some bubbles now to wet Lila's head. xx


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