The Gen I
t seems some small corners of the earth get caught more in the passing wind, and drift by as fast as they came. Te corner spot joining Lobster Lane with St John Maddermarket looked to be
such a place; once Te Ironmongers Pub, it transitioned to Boltz Bar, then faster to Miike’s Bar, seeming to suggest it wasn’t a place for lingering long. Tat changed when owners of Te Iron House, as it is now, completely renovated the building, opening it up and making it into the light, high ceilinged brasserie it is now. Serving everything from takeaway breakfast coffees to serving wedding parties, it’s made a name for itself since opening in 2011, and with any luck, is making that particular corner of the world a go-to, rather than a keep-going destination. I’ve made such bold claims before as to say this is my favourite restaurant in the city – will it prove me right tonight?
Atmosphere You have two choices of dining experience at Te Iron House; the intimate Low Ceiling enclave, or the bright and airy High Ceiling part of the restaurant. Sitting below the High Ceiling, surrounded by the massive panes of glass, you can let our beautiful city just pour in through the windows.
To Start
Asian Beef Kimchi Salad If restaurants were likened to hospitals, a brasserie serving flavours of the Med,
VENUE9.5/10
France, honouring local dishes and then knocking out an Asian stunner would be like paging the chiropractor to nip into theatre to remove a colon. Each has their definite demands, skills and pitfalls, but this first Asian dish I’ve tried at the Iron House was a testament to their knowledge. Te sweet and salty soy, citrus and ginger fuelled dressing tempered the iron rich beef, with the satisfying crunch of asian radish making it as fresh as a just-picked apple.
The Main Event Slow Cooked Shoulder of Lamb w/ Jannsons
temptation I was going to not choose the lamb. Honest. But when it was promised alongside something called ‘Jannsons Temptation’ – a phrase that sounded like a tabloid headline regarding Ulrika Johnsson’s latest vice-fuelled antics – I had to find out. It turns out it’s like a
FODDER9.5/10 GETTING HOME
Te Big Eat Out is proud to endorse Courtesy Taxis as the safe option for enjoying a couple of drinks and getting back home with ease. If you’re travelling within the ring road, book a taxi between 6pm and midnight, quoting ‘Ready to Go’and get a fixed fare of £4.50 for a car, £7 for a mini bus, seven days a week!
Swedish dauphinois with anchovies. Nice. Tat’s no holds barred cooking that. Lamb, creamy spuds, curly kale, carrot puree and red wine jus is always going to be a foot in, but cooked tenderly and expertly, it was a real winner.
Pud
Coffee with Petit Fours You know what’s better than pudding? Tree puddings. And a coffee. I was playing the oh-so-conservative by picking up the ‘I’ll just have coffee’ baton like a respectable lady with one ear still on her bulging waistband, but then pulled the pro move of picking the one that came with some treats. Sometimes they’re the god awful fondant fancy types, but not this time – mini lemon posset, brownie and cake came cheekily shadowed by my attention- deflector, the coffee, and were dainty, but intensely delicious. And that’s when I took the crown for ‘best at doing restaurants like an educated fatty.’
Value For the evening à la carte, you won’t get a starter under £5, or a main under £10, but neither will you be disappointed, or leave hungry. It’s a place for celebrations, for treats and indulgence, but if you want to try essence of Te Iron House on a lower budget, you’re in luck. Te lunchtime and brekkie menus are extensive, and nicely priced.
Overall Working near Te Iron House, I often see owner - Jeremy - outside sweeping, with a pencil behind his ear. While it’s not quite the footnote you’d expect in the Good Food Guide, I think you can tell a lot. Tey’re industrious, down to earth, creative – but the proof of course, is in the pudding. And remember, there were three of them.
VALUE8.5/10 OVERALL9/10
Courtesy Taxis 44-66-44
24hr service Norwich 01603
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