people will start trying other fish, not just the usual cod and salmon. I love grey mullet for example; people hear the word grey and get put off but it’s a beautiful fish, as good as sea bass. You can also do good stuff with Pollack and coley. You just need to be adventurous.
Where do you like to eat out? My favourite place is The Seahorse in Dartmouth. Mitch Tonks has a different style from me, but we both have huge respect for what we’re cooking. Mark Hix’s Oyster & Fish House in Lyme Regis is also amazing. In Padstow I love what Paul Ainsworth is doing. And of course, I love Paul Ripley’s stuff at Rick’s too.
Your desert island dish? It’d have to be barbecued mackerel. I’d score and season it then stuff it with a bit of wild fennel. I might serve it with a couple of new potatoes.
Your favourite cookbook? Richard Stein’s English Seafood Cookery. Yes, that’s Rick, but he was known as Richard then. I love the way he writes. The funny thing is that we all think Heston is doing wonderful things, but Rick was already doing anchovy ice cream back in 1988!
Nathan runs cooking masterclasses thoughout the year – see website for details. From October, you can also eat at Nathan’s new London restaurant, Outlaw’s Seafood & Grill, in the Capital Hotel.
www.nathan-outlaw.com See Nathan in action and pick up some fish cooking tips at the Cornish Food and Drink Festival in Truro on 28-30 September.
SMOKED MACKEREL AND BEETROOT SALAD WITH HORSERADISH MAYONNAISE
This is one of my favourite combinations of flavours – smoked mackerel and earthy beetroot with a touch of zingy hot horseradish and salty capers… I could enjoy it all day long. I like to serve this on a platter in the middle of the table for all to share. It works well with smoked salmon too.
Serves 4
8 smoked mackerel fillets, skinned 300g raw beetroot, peeled Olive oil for cooking and dressing 2 shallots, peeled and finely sliced 50ml red wine vinegar 3 tsp chopped dill Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Horseradish mayonnaise 2 egg yolks juice of½lemon 6 tsp horseradish cream 200ml light olive oil
To serve mustard cress crispy capers extra horseradish cream (if you can handle it!)
1 Check the smoked mackerel fillets for pin bones and break into large flakes.
Slice the beetroot very thinly, using a mandoline if you have one.
2 Heat a non-stick pan over a medium heat and add a drizzle of olive oil. When hot, add the shallots and cook for 2 minutes until
translucent. Season with salt and pepper and add the wine vinegar. Transfer to a plate to cool.
3 Put the sliced beetroot, shallots, chopped dill and a good drizzle of olive oil into a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Give it a good mix with your hands and leave to stand for at least 30 minutes.
4 For the horseradish mayonnaise, put the egg yolks, lemon juice and horseradish cream into a bowl and whisk together for 1 minute to combine. Slowly add the olive oil, drop by drop to begin with, then in a steady stream, whisking constantly, until the mixture is emulsified and thick. Season with salt and pepper to taste and reserve in the fridge.
5 Arrange the beetroot on a large platter and scatter the pieces of smoked mackerel on top. Dot the mayonnaise randomly all over the platter, using a piping bag fitted with a small plain nozzle for a neat presentation if you wish.
6 Scatter the mustard and cress and fried capers over the mackerel and serve, with extra horseradish mayonnaise on the side if you like.
FOODLOVERMAGAZINE.COM | 27
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ©DAVID LOFTUS
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60