vistas while pretending mastery of a little white ball. T e prestigious Fairmount Le Manoir Richelieu Hotel and adjacent casino off er a holiday destination for those seeking luxury amidst unbridled natural beauty. William Howard Taſt , a US president, adored the region and remarked that the air was “as intoxicating as champagne, yet without the hangover.” Later that day, we hiked to Chute Frazier, a dramatic waterfall that cascaded down a rocky escarpment within our campground. T e River Drive to Baie-Saint-Paul is a narrow and occasionally


steep road that hugs the shoreline, providing spectacular views at nearly every turn. Coastal communities such as Sainte-Irénée and Les Éboulements – members of the Most Beautiful Villages in Quebec Association – beckoned exploration. Farther along, the road dips down to the village of Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive where a maritime museum displays old sailing schooners that played a vital role in the economic development of this region. At one of several viewpoints, a local artist was painting pictures of imaginary sheep, as he said “from memory,” on a hillside occasionally selling one of his colourful creations to admiring tourists. T is 50-kilometre road, unsuitable for large RV’s, certainly lives up to its reputation as one of the most beautiful scenic routes in North America. Baie-Saint-Paul, one of the oldest towns in Quebec, is an artist’s


paradise with its traditional French architecture and European ambiance. Art galleries, craſt boutiques, and trendy restaurants line its narrow main street; tourists strolled about eating ice cream cones and French pastries. We lunched on the patio of a microbrewery, sampling a selection of their popular beers while relishing a bowl of French onion soup. Délicieux! A bronze statue of A. Y. Jackson honoured the famous painter who in the 1920’s, aſt er founding the Group of Seven, encouraged many artists to visit and capture on canvas the beauty of Charlevoix. A nearby dairy and cheese museum enlightened us about the


cheese-making process. Did you know that Canadienne cows have been bred in Charlevoix since the 1600’s to produce rich milk especially suited to cheese making? Neither did we, but the cheese curds were outstanding.


Returning along the main


highway, we marveled at the mountainous terrain formed millions of years ago by the impact of a large meteorite, resulting in a crater that extends from Baie Saint Paul to La Malbaie. Our bag of curds lasted just long enough to share with our neighbours, who reciprocated by off ering us a fresh trout they had caught in a nearby lake. Fishing, hiking, canoeing, bird-watching and other outdoor activities in the majestic countryside are as popular as cultural pursuits for those so inclined. Our fi nal two days were


Sainte Anne is known for performing miracles; people come from around the world to visit the Basilica.


spent beside the river at a free campground in Sainte-Anne- de-Beaupré. Directly across


RVT 147 • MAY/JUNE 2012 25


Chute Frazier


Falls is an esay walk within its namesake camp- ground.


the highway is an impressive Romanesque cathedral dedicated to Sainte Anne, the grandmother of Jesus. A tour guide pointed out the signifi cance of the magnifi cent paintings, mosaics, stained glass windows, and sculptures that embellish the Basilica. T is renowned pilgrimage site, the oldest (350 years) in North America, is visited annually by over a million people seeking refl ection and inner peace. Two walls of used crutches attest to the power of faith for some individuals. Nearly a year ago, we had explored the south shore


of the St. Lawrence and on this trip, the north shore. Both have plentiful campgrounds, a wealth of history, gracious hospitality, and comfortable roads, smooth and reasonably graded. But for picture-perfect scenery, we favour the latter even without having seen an awesome sunrise or elusive whale. Not to worry – we now have at least two reasons for a return trip. k


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