Pictures and story BY LARRY MacDONALD
St. LawrenceViva
A grand waterway, lush mountains, enchanting villages, artists, whales, and joie de vivre epitomize the north coast of Quebec’s St. Lawrence River. “Seen from the ferry, a sunrise
on the St. Lawrence is an awesome sight,” remarked a lady on the Gaspé Peninsula in Quebec. Our 5:30 a.m. reservation from Matane would provide that opportunity while delivering us to the eastern-most town on the north coast accessible by ferry for trailers and motorhomes. Parking our rig overnight at the ferry terminal facilitated an early boarding. Unfortunately, rain and low clouds during our crossing shrouded the sunrise. As it turned out, the picturesque north coast proved to be more awesome than we could have imagined. In slightly over two hours, my wife
Sandy and I disembarked as the sleepy little village of Godbout was awaking. A right turn here, onto Route 138, takes you several hundred kilometres along the ragged coast to Natashquan, the end of the road. We turned leſt toward Quebec City. Over the next eight days, we meandered several hundred kilometres through the tourist regions of Manicouagan, Charlevoix, and Quebec, havens for artists and nature lovers. Driving west to Baie-Comeau, we were
treated to majestic views of the river on the leſt , steep verdant mountains on the right. T e end of June begins summer vacation for students in Quebec, meaning things get busier even in this relatively secluded region of the province. Had we arrived a week earlier, or been more diligent about making an advanced reservation, we could have taken an alternate ferry from Matane directly to Baie-Comeau. But this ferry only departs later in the day, which means we would have missed the sunrise!
24 RVT 147 • MAY/JUNE 2012 Tadoussac Campground provides panoramic views of the St. Lawrence and Saguenay Rivers. Our two day stay in Baie-Comeau
wasn’t nearly long enough to explore all the attractions this area has to off er: Garden of the Glaciers includes a multimedia exploration of climate change, a postglacial nature tour, and an adrenalin zone off ering one of the longest ziplines in North America (2.1 km); two world-renowned hydroelectric facilities (Manic 2 and 5) with unique designs and gigantic dimensions; and a black bear environmental centre with interpreter guides. Aſt er a brief stop at the tourist information bureau, we explored the downtown area – historic buildings, art galleries, and a particularly fi ne gourmet shop featuring regional cheeses and chocolates. Former Prime Minister of Canada Brian Mulroney is a native of the town. Part of Quebec’s charm is its distinctive
French heritage, spanning over 400 years since Jacques Cartier fi rst dropped anchor here in 1535. We felt like we were in France: street signs, brochures, menus, unique architecture, and everyone speaking en français. Even with our very limited vocabulary, we always managed to communicate, using a few words, gestures, and laughter. Everyone appreciated our attempt to do so and we were enriched by the experience. Vive la diff érence! Departing Baie-Comeau, we continued
along the well-constructed coastal highway, aptly named the Whale Route. Beneath the surface of the St. Lawrence River is a deep valley extending out to sea which provides a buff et of delicacies for many species of marine mammals,
making this area one of the best in the world for seeing whales, especially Belugas and Minkes, in their natural environment. We were surprised to learn that the river is a mixture of fresh and salt water and minor tidal changes occur as far upstream as Quebec City, still 400 kilometres away. Our campsite at Tadoussac provided
a panoramic view of the village and its expansive sand-fringed circular bay, distinguished by an international association as one of the most beautiful in the world. A large elegant hotel with its shiny red roof is the town’s most prominent landmark, overshadowing a replica of the fi rst fur-trading post in Canada, established here in 1600. T e Marine Mammal Interpretation Centre provides information about 13 species of whales through videos, sound recordings, giant skeletons, and interesting interactive exhibits. Several operators at the marina provide whale- watching tours on the St. Lawrence and the adjoining Saguenay Fjord. Or you can simply stroll along the boardwalk at the confl uence of the two rivers and have the whales come to you. A local suggested, “Pack a picnic lunch with a bottle of vin and a generous supply of patience and you’re sure to have a grand time.” We did, in spite of not having a magical encounter with a whale. A free 10-minute ferry ride across the
Saguenay River and a short drive brought us to La Malbaie in the Charlevoix region. Having previously read about a premiere golf course draped atop a mountain, I spent an aſt ernoon admiring stunning
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