Consider glass with low-emittance (low-E) coating, which reduces heat transfer. The position of light-
colored gravel, pools and other reflective surfaces are important because they can bounce heat; consider putting up a screen to block the energy.
between warm air and the surface. Inset windows are cooler, as well. It’s all important, because 35 per- cent of a building’s potential heat gain stems from the direct action of solar rays striking surfaces, according to Aiello. In- corporating such passive solar design ele- ments into buildings can reduce heating bills by as much as 50 percent, according to the U.S. Department of Energy. Another passive technique is to use
cross ventilation by opening opposing windows. Take this a step further by in- stalling vents to allow hot air to escape from high spaces and cool air to enter at lower ones. Also, make sure walls and windows are well insulated against outdoor air. Inside, shutters, light-col- ored blinds and curtains can also make a big difference.
Also consider glass with low-emit-
tance (low-E) coating, which reduces heat transfer. The position of light-col- ored gravel, pools and other reflective surfaces are important because they can bounce heat; consider putting up a screen to block the energy.
Effective Active Cooling Comes Next
Alex Wilson, editor of Environmen- tal Building News and author of Your Green Home, says the easiest and most efficient option is to use portable floor fans or install ceiling fans, which use 90 percent less energy than air
Helpful Websites
Arizona Solar Center:
azsolarcenter.org Rocky Mountain Institute:
rmi.org
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency:
EnergyStar.gov
U.S. Green Building Council:
usgbc.org
conditioning. Fans can cool a room by a perceived seven to 10 degrees simply by moving air, which effects greater evaporation of perspiration. The next step in terms of low price and high efficiency would be to use a whole-house attic fan, which blows hot air from inside the entire structure out- side. However, Wilson points out that such devices are only able to provide substantial heat relief under certain conditions—usually at night and when the humidity isn’t too high. A less comprehensive solution is simply to push hot air out of the attic, which will also help cool the house. According to the utility Austin Energy, reducing the attic temperature by 10 degrees or more saves up to 10 percent on AC costs; solar-powered attic fans are available.
Some other alternatives to conven- tional, compression-cycle, central and room AC units are emerging, such as evaporative coolers, often called “swamp coolers.” These draw air over wet pads, and the resulting evaporation causes cooling. Wilson says they only make sense in dry climates, because they add moisture to the air. They typically cost 50 percent less than traditional AC and use 75 percent less energy, although they do require more maintenance. The most energy-efficient and initially expensive way to cool your home and heat it in the winter is with a geothermal heat pump that takes ad- vantage of the Earth’s subterranean heat gradient. Although they have a hefty upfront installation cost, operating costs are much less than conventional AC. Finally, don’t set the home’s thermo-
stat below 78 degrees Fahrenheit, and install a programmable model. Utilize dehumidifiers, bathroom fans and heat- producing appliances sparingly; switch to compact fluorescent and LED lighting instead of heat-emitting incandescent bulbs; and keep those AC filters clean.
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BrianClarkHoward.com.
July 2011 27
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