Executive Chef Lindsay Smith-Rosales, 30, specifically requested that my review be “all about the food” and therefore wine and cocktails were not included in the dining experi- ence”. Though an unusual theory; it did heighten my anticipation and expectation of the food that was to come. After all, she was once named one of the “Great Chefs of Orange County” for the celebration of, ironically, food and wine by the Balboa Bay Club. Chef Lindsay was voted one of the “Top 10 Chefs in Orange County under 40” and has only just been chosen one of the Roosters Foundations’ “Culinary Masters.” We were greeted by our sweet server, Alissa, a New Yorker establishing herself in
South O.C.—real estate agent by day, food server by night. She was well-informed about the menu and took a genuine interest in our experience. For our appetizer order, we decided on the Blue Cheese Thyme French Fries—thin cut fries, blue cheese with thyme and paprika served with a tart house-made basil aioli and Dijon mustard dip- ping sauce. It was such a hefty portion that we shared with the nice family at the next table. When I ordered the Seafood Trio, we looked forward to the herb-crusted jumbo scallops atop garlic mashed Yukon gold potatoes with a saffron paprika cream sauce, panko-crusted crab cakes served with a Creole aioli and corn, red bell pepper and chive salad and a blackened jumbo prawn atop sautéed French lentils with a chipotle cream sauce. Apparently the shrimp was not up to par that night and Chef Lindsay came back to our table and said it was not to standard and was off the menu. So, to my memory we agreed upon the Chicken Won Ton as a replacement. When the trio arrived, it was more of a duet as there was empty bed of fire roasted corn in the middle slot. We won- dered what had happened to the Chicken Won Ton replacement. However, the other two items were tasty and came nicely presented. To be honest though, many of our dishes that night were dominated with corn and mashed potatoes. Nirvana offers two other interesting appetizer trios; Carnivorous Trio—with herb-crusted grilled lamb lollipop atop sautéed French lentils with a rosemary demi glace, coffee crusted grilled filet mignon brochette atop blue cheese mashed potatoes with a red wine reduction chicken, pine nuts, corn, cilantro and manchego cheese, and fried wontons served with a chipotle cream sauce. For you vegetarians out there, the Vegetarian Trio comes with seasonal mushroom ragout with white wine, garlic, herbs and smoked sea salt topped with goat cheese grilled fresh, corn off the cobb with cotija cheese, crème fraiche, chili oil and cilantro grilled squash and fresh mozzarella mini quesadillas with a chipotle crème fraiche and cilantro. We loved the Fennel Salad—organic arugula, spinach and fennel, caramelized red onion, parmesan cheese and pistachios with house balsamic Dijon vinaigrette. The House-Made Soup of the Day incorporated black beans and corn chowder purée split diagonally down the middle in square bowl. This was a fun and flavorsome combination. It was difficult to decide on an entrée. Among the choices were Cioppino Fish Stew, Pistachio Dijon-Crusted Chilean Sea Bass, Coffee Crusted All-Natural Angus Filet Mignon, Organic Grass Fed Nirvana Beef Burger and Blackened Chicken. My partner, John, ordered the Lobster and Crab Saffron Risotto—arborio rice slowly cooked with lobster, crab, peas, leeks, shallots, tarragon, saffron, white wine, parmesan cheese and cream. In retrospect, he enjoyed the flavor, but found the presentation beige, sparse of seafood and with a gloppy consistency. I had a beautiful filet of Poached Wild Halibut in an orange-tarragon cream broth. Although presented under a whopping mound of shaved leeks, asparagus, shallots and tomatoes served atop a bed of jasmine and grain rice blend, in between was perfectly prepared halibut. For dessert the decadent Chocolate Moulton Cake and Goat Ice Cream with fresh figs which were a nice ending. Chef Lindsay’s culinary point of view is a dichotomy of sorts; some exciting innovative ideas that at times are over-shadowed by starch-heavy components and incomplete presentations! Nirvana is considered ultimate paradise while engaged in a state of humbleness, calm focus, an open mind and a listening ear. Even though the theme wasn’t quite captured on our visit, the restaurant shows great promise. Nirvana also offers creative breakfast, lunch, and brunch menus while functioning as a
full-service catering company. Various menus are available and served at the restaurant or off-site throughout O.C. On top of that, they also host cooking classes, wine dinners, special events and promotions.
Nirvana Grille Laguna Beach —303 Broadway #101, Laguna Beach. 949.497.0027
Nirvana Grille Mission Viejo —24031 Marguerite Pkwy #C, Mission Viejo. 949.380.0027 or
NirvanaGrille.com.
SEPTEMBER 2010 | RAGE monthly 77
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