Fast forward to January, 2010, when Larry and Susie set the stage for the third genera-
tion to take the helm, and the restaurant closed for major renovations. While still keep- ing the original “Tiki” style, the huge second floor main dining room has a complete makeover, with a beautiful new wood stairway leading up to all-new furnishings and the round bar in the center of the room sheathed in backlit onyx slabs. Years of paint layers have been sandblasted from redwood tree trunk posts and the large-beamed ceiling they support and beautiful natural wood glows with a clear golden finish. The gorgeous new restaurant demanded a menu to match. Christopher Powell, a
veteran of the San Diego food scene, topped a field of hundreds of applicants; and his new menu is clear evidence as to why he’s now executive chef. The young chef has assembled a truly inspired collection of appetizers and entrées that stays true to the restaurant’s Pan-Pacific heritage, and yet is a fresh interpretation of the finest in fusion cuisine, with an emphasis on Hawaiian flavors and classic European techniques. We visited Bali Hai on the second night of its “soft” re-opening. With workmen still putting finishing touches on the building, the kitchen opened without fanfare, plan- ning to serve any patrons who may happen by. So much for a gentle start. The dining room was already half full. A couple of guests at a nearby hotel had sauntered in the night before and were so impressed, they were hosting a lively party of 22 at a long table nearby. Our server, Victoria, could hardly contain her enthusiasm at the exciting new food offerings. We had her select a few of her newfound favorites for us to sample. The Sea Scallop appetizer is three large succulent scallops perfectly seared and topped with a thin layer of Hawaiian style “lomi lomi” cured salmon, resting in a rich gingered “dashi” broth with tiny white “Honshimeji” mushrooms and tender tarragon leaves add- ing texture and an earthy piquancy. In a flash of modern style and flavor, each scallop is crowned with a halo of brown butter foam. Refreshing Kama’aina Crab salad is a molded block of rice-vinegar-marinated crab
meat sitting on an unfurled square of palm heart, garnished with bits of papaya and all dressed with kim chee consommé. Yet another sparkling preamble is the Heirloom Tomato and Watermelon salad. A sheaf of perfectly ripe melon squares holds a mound of intensely flavored, tiny cherry tomato halves and bits of creamy feta cheese, with crunchy pistachios and a stripe of balsamic vinegar reduction. Just as with all the first course choices, the main dishes, (divided into sections from
land and sea,) are all very reasonably priced—particularly considering their creativity, complexity and generous portions. Several exquisite fish are offered in “Mai Ke Kai.” Black Cod Lau Lau is a perfect example, and displays the multicultural influence on Hawaiian cuisine. A ribbon of banana leaf surrounds absolutely fresh fish marinated in sake (rice wine) and miso (fermented soybean) that’s sautéed until just done. All rests on a raft of Portuguese sausage with kabocha squash and a bits of Lomi Lomi salmon. The marinade adds a comforting creaminess and complexity to this elegant concoction. Chicken, beef and duck populate the Mai Ka’ Aina (from the land) section. Exemplary of Western influence, and already a favorite of both owner and staff, is Top Sirloin “Loco Moco.” A baseball cut of grilled steak (recommended on the rare side) is drizzled with green peppercorn demi-glace and rests on a puddle of sauce “Gribeche,” a cousin of mayonnaise made from hard boiled eggs. The rich brown and creamy white sauces dance delightfully on the palate with the very tender steak. Owner Larry is thrilled that the restaurant will continue its half-century tradition for decades to come. “Over the years our patrons have become family; and we’re a part of their lives,” he says. The dining room and first-floor banquet rooms have housed celebrations large and small for generations. “We average seven weddings a week through most of the year, and we’ve got plenty of room to make it eight,” he added. So whether for a casual evening out or for your own big fete, you will want to join the Bali Hai family too, and return again and again.
Heirloom Tomato and Watermelon Salad
Alaskan Halibut
Top Sirloin Steak “Loco Moco” Style
MAY 2010 | RAGE monthly 79
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