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spain | eyewitness
hip and heaving Eslava. It’s standing room only at the bar for the honeyed ribs and mushroom cake in red wine sauce, but the richness and decadence of the food seems a perfect fit for a city that doesn’t plan on doing much sleeping in the searing summer heat.
Enlightenment in Cordoba A night-time exploration of Cordoba, Andalucia’s other great city, is a very different experience. An hour by train to the northwest of Seville, Cordoba’s golden era came earlier. In the 10th century, it was the largest city in Europe and the capital of a widespread, Islamic caliphate. At the time, it was arguably the most
enlightened city in the world, renowned for being a place of scholars and artists. It was also a city where Muslim, Jewish and Christian people lived happily alongside each other. Tis becomes abundantly clear on Artencordoba’s post-sundown walking tour of the city, which passes through u
WHERE TO STAY
There are plenty of reliable international — and equally good local — chains in Spain. Seville and Cordoba tend to be pleasantly inexpensive at the medium end of the scale, although characterful budget options aren’t thin on the ground either. The most memorable stays are often in old converted mansions and palaces, or small independent properties in centuries-old buildings. n HOTEL ALFONSO XIII: This renowned property in Seville is all lavish decadence, with dark wood ceilings, enormous chandeliers and cakings of superlative tile art. Rooms come in Andalucian, Castilian and Moorish styles. Doubles start at €252 ($283) a night. T: +34 954 91 70 00.
hotel-alfonsoxiii-seville.com
n HOTEL CASA 1800: Of the many charming converted houses based around courtyards, the Hotel Casa 1800 is arguably the one to get the heart racing. Sumptuous wooden floors, exposed brickwork and furniture designed to fit the rooms help make it special. Rooms from €120 ($135) a night. T: +34 954 56 18 00.
hotelcasa1800sevilla.com n NH COLLECTION AMISTAD: In Cordoba, the NH Collection Amistad is a converted 18th century mansion right up against the city walls. It’s blissfully built around swoony courtyards, but there’s a peaceful chic to the rooms — all high ceilings, light woods, gray marble and neutral tones. Doubles start at €89 ($100) a night. T: +34 957 42 03 35.
nh-hotels.com
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