14.00: Zagreb’s cathedral had to be rebuilt after a devastating 1880 earthquake, and its towering twin steeples and neo-Gothic facade are as arresting as the gold statue of the Madonna standing guard outside. Inside is the tomb of controversial archbishop Alojzije Stepinac, who was tried for treason after the Second World War for colluding with the Nazis, but was beatified by Pope John Paul II. 15.00: Just behind the cathedral is Park Ribnjak, 10 acres of woods, parkland and exotic plants. The scent in the springtime is heavenly. 18.00: Head to the lively Tkalciceva, a cobbled street of pastel buildings with more than a dozen cafes and restaurants. Squeeze into the tiny Cica for a quick brandy, Croatia’s national drink. 20.00: While you’re in Tkalciceva, settle under the wooden ceilings in rustic Restaurant Agava for an imaginative menu that combines Croatian, Italian and Asian flavours.
restaurant-agava.hr
The Museum of Broken Relationships
St Mark’s Church
Strossmayer Promenade
l DAY TWO 09.00: Join the great and the good for morning coffee in the cafe of the Hotel Dubrovnik just off Trg Bana Josipa Jelacica. Visitors on a Saturday will notice a Zagreb ritual – the spica – being enacted from 10am till about 2pm around the corner on Bogoviceva street and Petar Preradovic square. It is when the cafe-lined streets fill with locals
sauntering along in their smartest clothes, stopping for a coffee now and then, but mainly just promenading.
hotel-dubrovnik.hr 10.00: Check out the shops on Ilica, which is home to big European high street names, as well as Croatian labels. Look out for little Tomiceva street on the northern side. At number four is Take Me Home, a funky shop
stocking an off-the-wall collection of creations by Croatian designers.
takemehome.hr 12.00: Get a bird’s-eye view of the city from the 16th-floor observation deck of the Zagreb Eye. The skyscraper has been looming over Trg Bana Josipa Jelacica since 1959. From the top, where there is also a cafe, visitors get 360-degree views of Zagreb’s red rooftops and even
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travelweekly.co.uk — 22 January 2015
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PICTURES: CROATIAN NATIONAL TOURIST BOARD/ANA OPALIC; ZAGREB TOURIST BOARD/VRDOLJAK
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