DESTINATIONS — CROATIA & THE BALKANS
On the up
Mary Novakovich is won over by Croatia’s capital
IN ZAGREB HOURS
I
nspired more by Vienna and Budapest than its southern
Slavic neighbours, lively Zagreb has a cafe culture that easily holds its own against its old imperial masters. The European Union’s newest
capital is often overshadowed by Croatia’s glittering Adriatic resorts, but its appealing restaurant and bar scene, architecture and culture make it an attractive city-break destination in its own right. Divided into the
medieval Gornji Grad (upper town) and the 19th-century Donji Grad (lower town), its centre is compact and easy to explore. Zagreb is a city made
for strolling, for meandering along the cobbled streets and following the example of the stylish locals in their quest for the perfect coffee and a spot of gossip.
l DAY ONE 09.00: Start off in Zagreb’s heart, Trg Bana Josipa Jelacica, the square that honours the 19th-century Croatian governor who rose up against the ruling Hungarians. Enjoy the morning bustle from the vantage point of Aida Cafe Vienna, preferably over one of their rich cakes.
aida.hr 09.30: Wander around the corner and up the steps to Zagreb’s daily fruit and vegetable market, Dolac, a colourful collection of food stalls on the outdoor raised piazza. There is also an indoor market where you can taste some
of Croatia’s prized cured meats such as
prsut (prosciutto).
11.00: Take the incredibly cute 19th-century funicular – one of the shortest in the world at 217 feet – to the upper town. At the top is one of the most
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pleasant promenades in the city, Strossmayer Parade. Old-fashioned gas lamps light this tree-shaded walkway, with plenty of benches from which to catch views of the town below. Come in the summer and stop for a drink in the cafes that spring up. Beside it is Lotrscak Tower, a 13th-century fortification that lets off a resounding cannon blast every day at noon. Climb its spiral staircase to the top for sweeping views of the city. 11.30: Come down to earth with a bump – and a lump in the throat – with a visit to the Museum of Broken Relationships, just a few metres away from the tower. It is a compelling collection of mementoes of lost loves – seemingly banal objects that pack a thought-provoking and wryly amusing punch. Afterwards, walk a few minutes north to St Mark’s Square, where the unmistakable roof of St Mark’s Church glints in the sunlight. It’s a striking mosaic of the red, white and blue Croatian and Zagreb coats of arms that were added to the 13th-century
church, and it is one of the city’s most eye-catching emblems.
brokenships.com 13.00: Stop for a hearty lunch at the Restoran Lanterna na Dolcu on Opatovina street. Much of the food comes from the market and features plenty of grilled meats, plus gnocchi and risotto dishes.
restoran.lanterna-zagreb.com
Dolac market
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FAST FACT
Prestige Holidays now offers winter city breaks in Dubrovnik, Zagreb and Opatija
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