WIRES
A self-equalising connection.
›EXPERT Q & A
This issue’s expert is Calum Muskett. Calum, 20, is a North Wales trad warrior. He’s never happier than when sketching about above a nest of marginal RPs. He’s also a BMC
ambassador. Find out more about Calum at www.
muskettmountaineering.co.uk.
Q. Do you carry micro wires on climbs? A. Of course! On certain rock types, micro wires can be an essential item of climbing gear. Modern micro wires (such as IMPs and Stoppers) are surprisingly strong, and even the very smallest size will hold leader falls provided enough rope is out. Q. Any favourite shapes and sizes? A. There are three main shapes of micro wire: thin wedge- shaped wires with a large surface area; brass offset wires which can fi t awkward and fl ared cracks; and the more traditional RP shape, which is my favourite due to its versatility and relative strength. These can range from the width of a matchstick to larger than a Rock one. Q. Do you carry any other special items of trad gear? A. 95% of the time I fi nd that the usual gear suffi ces, however, very occasionally, I’ll also take a skyhook or two. These are suffi ciently strong and well-shaped to stay on small ledges and hold leader falls under the correct circumstances. They can also be used as “get out of jail free” cards to lower off on bold routes. Q. Have you ever lowered off a climb from a skyhook? A. I’ve lowered off a sky hook twice, and both times it was well positioned and felt secure as I was lowered smoothly down. More frighteningly, I’ve actually fallen onto skyhooks twice. On one occasion it held a reasonably big leader fall in the Dolomites, on the other there was little rope out and the hook snapped. On both occasions I squealed like a pig. Q. What’s more important – a psychological runner or confi dence in your own ability? A. Confi dence in your own ability is key; marginal gear is only there to stack the odds in your favour in the worst-case scenario of a fall.
Slate: the spiritual home of the micro wire.
›FURTHER INFO AMI:
Find an instructor Want to learn more? Look for the Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI) logo as assurance of high-quality instruction. All members of AMI hold one of the UK’s highest climbing and mountaineering qualifi cations: the MIA or the MIC. All AMI members adhere to a professional code of practice and undertake continuing professional development training.
www.ami.org.uk
WATCH: BMC TV
A selection of brass RPs. Spot the one that needs retiring.
Watch BMC TV for a range of gear advice.
www.thebmc.tv
SUMMIT#74 | SUMMER 2014 | 69
PHOTO: STEVE LONG.
ILLUSTRATION: MTUK.
PHOTO: ALEX MESSENGER
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