CLIMBING
Is being a pro climber the dream job we all think it is? James: For sure, but being a pro athlete is getting harder. Standards have risen. Once, climbing a new E7 would be enough to get you a glossy spread in a magazine, but not anymore. The standards for top climbers have moved on. And I’ve learnt that you can’t grade chase. Ultimately, when you base your entire persona on grades then there is only one possible way you can progress: up. But, you know, I’ve no regrets choosing this path. My family don’t have money, so if I wanted to climb full time, then I had no other choice. Caro: If you don’t play the game, it’s a problem. You have to be able to give a bit of yourself, share a bit, yes, even sell a bit. Climbing is not very interesting; it’s the human story. It’s more interesting when there’s a journey, a development, you know. I mean, look at Adam Ondra. The problem with Adam is that there’s no drama, you want to fi nd more about the struggle.
What about climbing as a couple – any advice? Caro: Be on a similar level. Actually, I don’t have any advice; it’s so easy for a girl in climbing. There are ten guys for every girl. James: In the UK, my experience was that, more often than not, the girl only climbed to spend some time with her boyfriend. Before I met Caro, I actually decided that my next girlfriend would not be climber – it was far too much stress – but then, I’d never met someone at the same level. Caro: We’re not on the same level, I’m fi tter. James: OK, we mix and match. As a climber, it would be so hard to go out with someone who wasn’t into it. We understand our strengths and how to help each other succeed. We complement each other nicely. I bring adventure and trad climbing; she brings sport fi tness and training. And hey, we’ve always got a belayer.
It must be pretty intense, climbing, travelling and living together in a small van? James: Sometimes. We end up spending 23 out of 24 hours together. Caro: Only 23? Where do you go for that missing hour? James: Mainly, I plan weddings. To be honest, for the last two years, we have spent all our time together. Even to the extent that other climbers suggested that we should fi nd other partners, because we might forget how to climb with other people. Caro: That’s such bullshit!
Does getting married mean the start of settling down? James: Hey, we’ve only been married four days. We’re both living in the van. Our lives are fully on the road, dedicated to fi nding new climbing. It could be amazing, it could be rubbish, and then it’s on to the next destination. Caro: No way! For our honeymoon we’re going to Turkey, where some friends have bolted a 150m long limestone route for us as a wedding present.
You’ve both moved into multi-pitch climbing, was that a conscious plan? James: Yes. We looked for a way to combine our strengths and hit on multi-pitch sport climbs. Now, these aren’t sport climbs as you’d generally recognise them, they can be terrifying, especially the ones that have been bolted on the abseil. Very hard multi-pitch sport routes may not get climbed that often, so you’ll be struggling up super run-out climbing on sketchy, damp tufas. Take Aria, for example (a ten-pitch F8a+ on Punta Plumare, Sardinia). It’s wildly run out - some pitches are up to 45m long, but you could do the whole route with six quickdraws and two belay plates.
What does the future hold? James: I don’t know. But I’ve no regrets. I always said I wanted to live the climbing life to 30, and I nearly have. Caro: I want to get stronger than James. And I nearly have.
R Caro and James: living the van dream.
James and Caroline are sponsored by The North Face, La Sportiva, Edelrid, Wild Country, Adidas Eyewear and Espace Escalade. Check out their adventures at http://onceuponaclimb.
co.uk.
Don’t miss: The North Face Kalymnos Festival: 9 – 12 October 2014
R Caroline competing in The North Face Kalymnos Festival 2013.
The Greek island of Kalymnos is one of the top destinations in the world for sport climbing. Open to climbers of all levels, The North Face® Kalymnos Climbing Festival brings together the world’s best climbers, together with climbers from all corners of the globe. The festival lasts three days and has a full program of competitions, masterclasses with The North Face® athletes, a seaside Story Teller Night and beach parties.
www.thenorthfacejournal.com/category/climbing/kalymnos
62 | 70TH ANNIVERSARY YEAR | FOR BRITISH CLIMBING AND WALKING SINCE 1944
LIVING DREAM
THE
PHOTO: DAMIANO LEVATI / THE NORTH FACE
PHOTO: ALEX MESSENGER.
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