8″×8″’s for the vertical members and 12″×l2″’s for the horizontals. The diag- onal braces are 3″×8″’s; don’t forget to shim the outer braces at the four points where they cross the main tim- bers. This allows the “intersection” to be correct. Before assembling these pieces, I used a razor saw to add wood grain and stained them with my fa- vorite india ink and alcohol mix. Again using the plan, I cut, distressed and stained the direct tank supports (joists) from scale 6″×12″’s. Before glu- ing all of these timbers together, I built the frost box. I used ¹₁₆″ sheet basswood with scale
6″ spacing for the basic box. The corner boards are actually ³₃₂″ milled “figure 8 shape” corner trim from Northeastern and the door is thin sheetwood sur- rounded by a stripwood frame glued di- rectly onto the surface of the box. The paint scheme is my standard SC&SC scheme of Floquil Reefer Gray below and for the trim and Primer Gray for the upper walls. With all of this preliminary work com-
pleted, I assembled the parts. When all was dry, I drilled holes for and inserted Grandt Line n.b.w.
(nut-bolt-washer)
castings at points where the bracing crossed the main timbers. I also inserted lengths of blackened brass wire to repli- cate reinforcing rods and installed Grandt Line hinges and a latch made
from a scrap HO gondola part. This fin- ished the support system and I now turned my attention to the tank itself. The tank sheathing is ¹₃₂″ sheet basswood with ³₃₂″ scribing,
which
scales out to about 9″ wide boards. I didn’t have a wide enough sheet to cov- er the entire circumference of the tank, so I cut two pieces to size and trimmed them so there would be a small gap where they met when applied to the turned core. This gap would allow the anchoring of the tank bands and would be concealed by the depth gauge. While the sheathing was still flat, I lightly scribed lines to help locate the tank bands, then I moistened both pieces and secured them with rubber bands to a can of wood stove paint that was close to the exact size of the core. When these pieces dried, they assumed the shape of the can and it was a simple process to glue them to the wood core using Elmer’s®
wood glue, the adhesive
I used throughout this project. For the tank bands, which kept the tank staves in place,
I used nylon
thread. To mount them, I used a tech- nique that I think goes back to Camp- bell Scale Models. First I drilled holes into the core, spaced closer at the bot- tom, just slightly below each scribed line. I inserted common pins into each hole and then tied off the length of thread to the bottom pin, cutting off as
The base of the tank (below) was built using scribed basswood sheeting for the walls and stripwood for the tank supports and bracing. Note that the n.b.w. castings, door hinges and reinforcing rods are in place. A piece of wood turned on a lathe serves as the core of the tank body (right). It will be covered with sheathing.
much excess as possible. I wound the thread around the tank following the scribing and looped it around the first pin, pulling it tight. I strategically placed some drops of cyanoacrylate ce- ment to hold the thread in place, moved the thread up to the second pin and re- peated the process until I had complet- ed all nine bands. To finish the job I pushed all of the pins completely into the core and used more cyanoacrylate cement to ensure they wouldn’t work their way out. I also used cyanoacrylate to glue a Grandt Line No. 48 Water Tank Hoop Fastener in place on each of the nine bands. (Note their staggered placement in the photos.) When all of this was dry, I sprayed the tank with a thinned coat of Floquil Primer. The roof is constructed from photo mounting board. I made eight triangles to size using the plans and glued them to an octagonal form measuring 11′-0″ from side to side. I left enough room at the base of each section to allow a fascia board to be glued flush with the edge of the roof, but I waited on the fascia until the roofing paper was installed. For this material I used an old favorite, black construction paper. Working from the bottom of the roof up to the top, I cut pieces to fit and glued them in place. The only tricky part was working around the access hatch. I cut narrow sections to cover the joints, then em-
RAILROAD MODEL CRAFTSMAN
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