INDUSTRY INSIDER | SKINCARE TRENDS |


consumers continue to spend cautiously on their pre- and post-treatment skincare purchases, many seek out the expert advice and convenience of getting their products where they have their BOTOX® and IPL treatments. The biggest lament of practitioners on the topic of dispensing products is that patients often come in for a consultation, get their advice, and then go online to make a purchase at a discounter or an unauthorised dealer. Although beauty institutes and salons


were traditionally the largest doors in Europe in the professional skincare category, the proliferation of aesthetic clinics and medical providers in Europe and the US continues to grow. In the US, in-office dispensing offers practitioners a potentially lucrative passive income stream. The growing number of franchised clinic chains and other professional outlets provides promising distribution for skincare vendors looking to increase their market penetration without resorting to selling direct to consumers. The medispa channel remains strong in


the US, having weathered a recession that saw numerous closings, consolidations and acquisitions. According to Bonnie Marting, ARNP, of West Palm Beach, FL, 'Our retail sales have never been stronger. We can attribute this to the fact that we feature an edited selection of advanced skincare brands, such as SkinMedica and iS Clinical, that are exclusive to medical facilities, so our clients cannot just go to the mall or on Amazon to get them. We invest in ongoing training for our team of aestheticians, and clients value the highly personalised service we offer.'


Inclusive wellness According to Susie Ellis, President of SpaFinder® Wellness, there are over 20000 spas in the US alone — more than there are Starbucks — and 87000 spas globally. Ellis cites the importance of how the spa industry is fully embracing its role in helping people find wellness modalities that can transform their lives, from healthier hotel offerings, diet and fitness, to facials and massages. 'Consumers are beginning to understand


that skincare isn’t just a once-in-a-while pampering experience; it is a lifestyle choice which requires a whole spectrum of healthy living,' she says. In the SpaFinder® Wellness 2013 Trend


Report, genomic testing was highlighted as a new science-based foundation for more


16 ❚ precise preventative


medicine to offer a genetically grounded roadmap for living better and longer. Dr Daniel Friedland,


President Elect of The American Board Of Integrative


Holistic


Medicine, is an expert in the new science of epigenetics: 'Genes are not the whole story; they are only your blueprint. The caps of your genes are called telomeres, which are responsible for cellular ageing, and protect the DNA from getting frayed and sticking together. Every time the DNA gets replicated, our telomeres shorten. Telomeres are like the fuse on a bomb as it is going down. 'Your epigenetics can determine your


health, vitality and longevity by controlling which genes get expressed and which genes stay dormant. In that way, epigenetics can determine whether you stay healthy or become sick with disease. What determines


how


epigenetic switches turn on or off is your external and internal en vir o nm en t, including your diet, exercise and the amount of stress in your life.' Spas and medispas have


always been a destination in which these offerings are available. As this trend emerges, there is an opportunity to become educated about how to incorporate some component of the inclusive wellness theme into your clinic.


5-star reviews Beauty brands, as well as practitioners and skincare professionals, are focused on meeting the needs of knowledgeable consumers who crave products with active ingredients that deliver results, and increasingly rely on expert advice and online reviews to make purchasing decisions. Just as consumers will check out a restaurant or hotel, they are likely to research doctors and clinics before they make a decision. The same holds true for purchasing skincare or having a peel, laser treatment or wrinkle filler. Online forums and shopping sites are loaded with user reviews, and despite the


May/June 2013 | prime-journal.com Consumers are


beginning to understand that skin care isn’t just a


once-in-a-while pampering experience.


fact that these posts and threads are often anonymous, they do carry some weight. Before you add a new brand or treatment to your clinic, you might be well advised to look at what consumers are saying about the products online.


Ingredient-obsessed consumers Peptides, hydroxy acids, enzymes, antioxidants, retinols and every other active ingredient are catching the eyes and ears of consumers who are determined to stay ahead of the curve. Although consumers are readily drawn


in by new and exciting ingredients touting impressive claims, most over-the-counter products can get to market with small and limited studies. It’s not all about the ingredient on the label, which varies in potency from brand to brand anyway. According to Lisa Donofrio, MD, New York Dermatologist, 'We try to choose products that have controlled studies and solid clinical data to back up their claims of efficacy. As a dermatologist, my patients rely on me to do a proper evaluation of a product before I can recommend it. I have to test and try every product myself so I know that it really works and won’t


cause irritation.'


Conclusions Skincare consumers are continually looking for the ‘next big thing’ that will erase wrinkles, obliterate acne scars, or break up brown spots. This voracious appetite for what’s new will continue to drive the development of sophisticated new ingredients in the future.


References


1. Tyrimou N. Leading beauty trends for 2013. http://tinyurl.com/dyedwk2 (accessed 1 May 2013)


2. Mintel BPC. A thirst for beauty -—two thirds of global skincare NPD in 2012 had moisturising/hydrating claims. http://tinyurl.com/cc99cbu (accessed 1 May 2013)


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