INDUSTRY INSIDER | SKINCARE TRENDS | devices has made this possible. We are
continuing to see more clinical treatments that mimic what can be achieved at the dermatologist's office, and they are getting better and better; for example, peel kits, microdermabrasion devices that have suction to clear out pores, hyaluronic acid patches, light treatments for acne, hair growth, hair removal, teeth whitening and more beauty tools under development. The next crop of home-care devices will
be able to resurface the skin so that consumers can help maintain their results after in-office laser and light-based
procedures.
According to Dermatologist Brian Biesman in Nashville, TN, 'We will soon have home-use devices that will be able to work at energies that are typical of office-based devices, but that will not be able to give as intense a treatment. We don’t know what else we can do with these systems yet, but using them in combination with topical agents looks very promising.'
ageing for longer are on the horizon. The diagnostic component in skincare may have the ability to pre-determine what ingredients, and in what concentration, will work best for each individual’s wrinkles, acne, pigmentation and more. Another variation on this theme is
Ingredients based
skincare and beauty ranges developed to target consumers of a specific age group. For example, millennials and GenYers eager to maintain their youthful looks, menopausal women who want to reverse the signs of ageing, teens motivated to keep acne at bay, and men looking to keep their skin healthy.
on personal genetics that might delay cellular
ageing for longer are on the horizon.
The bright stuff Although the Asia–Pacific region has historically been credited with the huge growth in lightening and brightening products, both incorporated
Bespoke therapies As the skincare sector becomes increasingly saturated, targeted offerings and services are becoming a vital tool to gain a competitive advantage. Increasingly knowledgeable consumers are demanding more personalised products and treatments. Clinics have evolved to include more bespoke services tailored to their specific needs. For example, ingredients based on personal genetics that might delay cellular
into anti-ageing formulations or on their own, the desire for brighter and more radiant skin is also strong across Europe, the Middle East and Africa, as well as North America. Although among many dermatologists
hydroquinone remains the gold standard, new alternatives based on novel enzymes and peptides have been launched into the professional skincare arena from brands such as Lumixyl®, Neocutis®, Elure® and SkinMedica® among others, that are giving hydroquinone a run for its money. Treatments that address the special
needs of darker skin types are also on the rise to meet the demand. 'Ethnicity does not confer skin type
because so many people are of mixed racial origins,' says Martiza Perez, MD, a dermatologist in Danbury, CT. 'The most common skin complaint among darker skin types is hyperpigmentation of some kind. Although I educate all of my patients
in the same way, treatment for skin of colour patients is not the same. For example, skin of colour cannot tolerate inflammation in the same way, and it may take a long time to reverse. This is why sunscreen should be an integral part of every skincare regimen for acne, eczema, and other skin disorders.'
Water, water everywhere Apparently, consumers are obsessed with hydrating their skin. New research from Mintel BPC highlights a recent shift from manufacturers toward moisturisers, as 66% of all new skincare products launched globally in 2012 had a moisturising and hydrating claim2
. In fact, product launches
communicating the inclusion of water from oceans, glaciers, springs or spas have been growing in popularity. The reasons cited for consumer interest
in moisturisers include weather conditions, stress and ageing, but women are also programmed by the skincare and cosmetics industry to think of ageing skin as being dry and in need of hydration to prevent and reverse wrinkles. Mintel’s research showed that dry skin is one of the key concerns of European women. In the US, over half (52%) of consumers buy facial skincare products to treat or prevent dry skin, compared with 56% of consumers in the UK, 37% of French women and almost half (48%) of German women. Furthermore, more than one third of women in France (33%), Germany (37%), Italy (35%) and Spain (39%) use facial skincare to prevent or delay the onset of fine lines and wrinkles.
Retail realities The opportunities for incorporating skincare into clinical treatments continue to show growth. Aesthetic clinics and spas are readily interested in adding new treatment offerings and retail products, shorter treatment options, and new ways to promote their retail vertical to customers. While some
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May/June 2013 |
prime-journal.com
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