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SARATOGA SIDEBAR


SARATOGA-SPECIALTY DOUGHBOYS (AND BURRITOS AND MORE) FROM ESPERANTO MAKE GREAT TAKE-OUT.


CUISINE-A-GO-GO Sure, the potato chip has pride of place in Saratoga’s culi- nary history. But for recent generations—thousands of Skid- more alumni among them—the snack of legend around here is the doughboy. Invented by Skidmore psychology professor Sheldon Solomon, who co-founded the Esperanto eatery in 1996 with his former student Will Pouch ’86, the doughboy is the snack of choice for late-night Caroline Street revelers. “I’m quite surprised and delighted that the doughboy has become a local favorite,” says Solomon. For just $3.50 you can enjoy the chicken, cheddar, cream cheese, scallions, and spices baked in a crisp pocket of pizza dough—and maybe grab a gyro or bur - rito while you’re there.


Perhaps equally iconic in Saratoga’s take-out scene is PJ’s bar- becue, recently restyled as a year-round eatery. The down-home drive-up on South Broadway has been serving dry-rubbed, slow- cooked chicken and ribs for three decades to Saratoga natives, horse-racing enthusiasts, and passing packs of motorcyclists, all waiting patiently together in long lines on summer evenings. Among PJ’s staples are New York State Fair chicken, Memphis or Kansas City ribs, Texas brisket, and North Carolina pulled pork, with a wide range of classic picnic sides. For the meat-free set, there is the buffet at Four Seasons on Phila Street, where you can help yourself to hot and cold favorites like noodles with peanut sauce, seaweed salad, chickpea curry, tofu stir-fry, mushroom barley pilaf, and, if your timing is lucky, Phil’s Famous Felafel with tahini sauce. Load up a nifty cardboard container, and then it’s weigh, pay, and away you go.


The same system applies at the salad buffet at Putnam Market on Broadway, where selections might include curry chicken salad, broccoli salad


68 SCOPE FALL 2012


with apples, whole artichoke hearts, and sesame noodles. Also in the cold case might be salmon with sour cream and dill sauce, turkey meatloaf, grilled chicken with lemon and capers, cheeses, and more. Can’t decide? They’ll make you a boxed lunch—say, the Tuscan: a baguette with prosciutto, mesclun, and butter, plus fresh mozzarella and tomato salad, fruit, and homemade biscotti, for $15.


New on the scene is Comfort Kitchen in the Saratoga Mar- ketplace, offering soothers like mac and cheese, club sandwiches, and burgers. But don’t be fooled. Chef-owner Rory Moran has a deft touch and a gift for presentation. His club, for example, is all gourmet—thick slabs of brown-sugar-brined turkey, avocado, bacon, leaf lettuce, and a gently herbed mayo. And you can take extra comfort in knowing he shops devotedly at the local farmers’ market. On Tuesdays there are dueling Italian take-out specials: Jacob and Anthony’s on High Rock Avenue sells a platter of pasta, another of salad, and bread for a large family for about $25, while Forno Toscano on Broadway offers specialty wood- fired pizzas and salad.


A fried chicken dinner from Hattie’s (still a Phila Street insti- tution) always hits the spot, keeps well in a warming oven, and doesn’t drain the wallet. Mrs. London’s mini-quiches, with vegetables or the classic Lorraine, make a great dinner with a side salad, and they freeze and re- heat beautifully. Many Asian restaurants also specialize in food to-go, a particularly charm- ing example being the recyclable bento box with sections of well-prepared teriyaki, tem - pura, and shumai from the chic new Duo on South Broadway. Hungry yet? —KG


GARY GOLD


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