ARTICLE | BODY SHAPING |
Table 4 Clinical assessment: % of subjects Abdomen
(3 cm sideward umbilicus) T2
T4
Cosmeceutical active
formulation Placebo
Improved (≥1 grade) 6% Not changed Worsened
92% 2%
Improved (≥1 grade) 0% Not changed Worsened
100% 0%
23% 77% 0%
2%
98% 0%
T8
15% 83% 2%
0%
100% 0%
Hips
(iliac spine) T2
17% 83% 0%
0%
100% 0%
T4
56%* † 44%* † 0%* †
0%
100% 0%
T8
46%* ‡ 54%* ‡ 0%* ‡
0%
100% 0%
*Dunnett’s test P<0.05 vs T0. †Wilcoxon test P<0.001 T4 product vs T4 placebo. ‡Wilcoxon test P<0.001 T8 product vs T8 placebo
Figure 7 Clinical evaluation of the abdominal adipose pannicula treated by tested cosmeceutical active
formulation. Variation (%)
are plotted against baseline values
100% 90% 80% 70% 60% 50% 40% 30% 20% 10% 0%
CLINICAL EVALUATION ABDOMEN ADIPOSE PANNICULA VARIATION vs BASELINE
92% 77% 83%
group of rhodophytes. These actives are often used as
lipolytic firming agents in cosmeceutical formulations. Their lipolytic activity is mainly related to a selective activation of adenylate cyclase within adipocyte cell membranes. Under their biological influence, intracellular concentrations of cyclic adenosine monophospate (cAMP) are increased, leading to a progressive reduction in triglycerides within adipocytes, giving off fatty acids and free glycerol. Fucus vesiculosus, the botanical properties of which
23% 15% 6% 2% treatment Better
T2 - after 2 week
0% treatment Not changed Worsened
T4 - after 4 week
2%
T8 - 4 weeks after the end of the treatment
were discovered in 1811, was an original source of iodine extensively used to treat goitre. Primary chemical constituents of this plant include mucilage, algin, mannitol, beta-carotene, zeaxanthin, iodine, bromine, potassium, volatile oils, and many other minerals. The main use of bladderwrack and other types of seaweed in herbal medicine, is as a supplemental source of iodine, an essential chemical substance for the thyroid gland. The lipolytic complex also included an extract of
CLINICAL EVALUATION HIPS
VARIATION vs BASELINE Figure 8 Objective clinical
evaluation of subcutaneous adipose tissue of hip regions treated by tested active
cosmeceutical formulation. Variation (%) are plotted against baseline values
100% 90% 80% 70% 60% 50% 40% 30% 20% 10% 0%
83% 56% 44% 46% 54%
Sphacelaria scoparia. This active is obtained from a seeweed known as Ôsea broomÕ. These algae have been extensively studied for their ability to inhibit fat cell growth. Adipocyte differentiation is inhibited by controlling the expression of fatty acid synthase (FAS) and stearoyl-CoA desaturase-1 (SCD-1). Extracts of Sphacelaria scoparia are also helpful in improving the mechanical properties of the skin by increasing the synthesis of collagen I and collagen IV. The tested lipolytic complex also contained buckwheat
17% 0% treatment Better
T2 - after 2 week
0% treatment Not changed Worsened
T4 - after 4 week
0%
T8 - 4 weeks after the end of the treatment
wax, an active botanical ingredient which has proven helpful in inhibiting and/or reducing lipogenesis. Buckwheat wax is a pale green wax with a characteristic odour. It is obtained from the grains of Polygonum fagopyrum through a super-critical CO2
extraction process
in the presence of a vegetable oil, followed by the addition of a hydrogenated vegetable oil. Botanical ingredients obtained through super-critical CO2
extraction processes providing a longer shelf-life combined with a long-lasting
treatment performance. The second important active of tested lipolytic complex
26 ❚
was an oil extract of Gelidium cartilagineum, a red seaweed rich in rhodysterol (1.5% active sterol). Sterols and their derivatives are particularly represented in the botanical
July/August 2012 |
prime-journal.com
have the advantage of being inert, colourless, odourless and non-toxic. Buckwheat wax is rich in phytosterols, mainly β-sitosterol and campesterol, which are able to inhibit lipogenesis. Stigmasterol does not affect lipogenesis but, on the other hand, stimulates lipolysis. Cosmeceutical effects obtained by the use of Buckwheat wax are superior to those induced by separated phytosterols. Its inhibitory action is probably explained by a synergistic, cumulative
Subjects %
Subjects %
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