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On this alignment guide, I suggest ex- tending the lines beyond the drawing to make it easier to transfer them to the inside of the hull. The actual construction process
went well, but there are a couple of techniques that made things a bit easi- er. When laminating the three pieces of the hull together, I used my trusty index finger as a glue applicator to en- sure that I got the adhesive evenly spread across the parts’ entire surface. By the way, I used Aleene’s Tacky Glue as my primary adhesive for most of the project. Once I had glued the sides to- gether, I secured each piece to my lazy- susan-like tool caddy with clamps so that as they dried they took on a curved orientation that allowed them to be more easily glued to the floor. Once those sides were dry, I glued the
bow ends together first and then, when they were set, I gradually fastened each side down the length of the floor, mak- ing sure that the bottoms of the sides and the floor were aligned. When the transom was glued into position, the ba- sic shape of the hull was formed and the stem and knee were installed in the bow and stern, respectively.
When installing the interior bracing,
be judicious about cutting the square stripwood to length. I had to hit my wood supply for another length when the kit supplied pieces ran out. This strip is the same size as HO scale 2″×2″’s so it’s easy to duplicate. As for the remaining stripwood intended for the gunwales around the top perimeter of the sides, I suggest wetting the strips thoroughly, then bending them into as close a curve as possible to match the contour of the hull. I did so and used weights to hold the curve as the strips dried. This made it much easier to match that curve. Once the seats were glued into place, the boats assumed their final shape and every- RAILROAD MODEL CRAFTSMAN
thing was solid and shipshape. The two boats do have a couple of different features. As mentioned be- fore, the oar locks on the dory are small pieces of wire cut to length. I col- ored these in gun blackening solution prior to installing them to avoid get- ting paint on the gunwales. On the row boat, these fittings were
minute laser-cut parts that were at- tached to the gunwales. I used thick cyanoacrylate for that task. By the way, be very careful when thinning and sanding the oars, as suggested in the instructions. I broke one of each pair above the blade. They can be re- paired, but be careful. I also added a brass eyebolt to each bow to serve as a fastening point for the tie-up rope, or “painter.” As for painting, as the instructions
state, these are work boats and do tend to get beat up. I painted the interior of each with Floquil CN Gray, then weathered them with an alcohol and india ink wash. This dried quickly and there was no warpage. The dory’s hull was covered with thinned Floquil Box- car Red and that of the rowboat is an old Floquil military color called Khaki, but any tan shade would do. I dry- brushed a bit of white on each hull and this helped to make the strakes, the layered sides, stand out. All in all, these are neat little kits.
While there are a couple of spots where an extra hand might be useful, they re- ally do go together pretty easily. There is quite a bit of detail with the scribed floors and interior bracing and they will fit in very nicely on any waterfront needing a bit more scenery. In Albion Harbor on my layout, they’ll be right up front amongst the larger craft, waiting to provide my O scale oarsmen with some exercise. The price for the kits is $10.95 each plus shipping, and they’re well worth it.—BOB BENNETT
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