towards the tail, driving a reducing gear on the prop shaft which ran in journals below the engine. The normal 2500 rpm was re- duced to 1200 rpm and drove a left hand prop. The Indian Chief displaced 71 cubic inches and was gravity fueled from a tank mounted over the upper wing center- section. No information exists to my limited knowledge concerning color and markings. The photo in “The Lightplane Since 1909” appears to reproduce a dark fuselage color, lighter wings, and a silver or white engine area. The number “39” on the fuselage sides are shown on Gordon Codding’s drawings and presumably were placed when the aircraft was entered in the 1924 Dayton Air Races. Of course no “N” num- bers were placed as no C.A.A. existed. I had purchased a set of ¹⁄₁₂ drawings from Gordon Codding3 many years ago


with the intent to someday develop a Free- Flight Scale model from them. When Joe began considering a replacement for his much flown Farman Sport, he commented on the previously mentioned photo in “Lightplanes” and I recalled the long ig- nored drawings. A hasty ruler application revealed an ideally proportioned bipe for CO2 could be developed by using a .8 fac- tor. As a consequence, the model is in ⁸⁄₁₀ inch to the foot scale, a little strange grant- ed, but a simple scale ruler can be devel- oped for competition use by following the instructions in the A.M.A. rule book. The resultant model is of considerable


eye appeal, and also flies exceptionally well. Frankly, CO2 power is simply great for fun type flying. A model of this size will fit in a box from the grocery store, can be carried in the smallest of sub-compact cars, and requires only the charger in the


pocket and the model in the hand. Play- grounds and even empty lots provide suffi- cient flying space. No one complains of noise (there isn’t any) and operation is so clean one can fly in his business suit and tie if so inclined. After watching several modelers fly


these powerplants and reflecting back on my personal experiences in the early 1950s, I am convinced that these little CO2 powerplants are the wave of the future for fun flying. This concept is going to sweep the model world with as big a splash as Peanut Scale has. If you question my en- thusiasm you simply have not tried CO2 yet. This little model is a great place for you to start, so let’s build one!


General Construction Notes All the balsa sheet used in this project is


light but firm ¹⁄₁₆-inch sheet Contest grade. Basswood is available from your hobby dealer and/or model railroad suppliers. The wheel can be ordered from Peck Polymers [now A2Z Corp., www.A2ZCorp.us/store, 720-833-9300]. Cyano Acrylate (Hot Stuff, etc.) is exceptionally handy on models of this size. Never mark anything on this model with a ball point pen, the finish will only cover over light pencil marks.


The Fuselage Make yourself a “kit” by cutting all parts


out before assembly is begun. Trace the patterns from the plan onto typing paper or tracing paper, cut out to rough size, then spray lightly with Sprayment or such. Stick onto sheet (watch grain direction) and carefully cut to correct outline. Drill holes for motor mount and tubing. Two identical fuselage sides are built


The top and bottom wings are identical, one less complication in your life. Note the scalloped trailing edge, typical of early aircraft. Nothing difficult to frame out on this aircraft; it’s a relaxing ship to build. The CO2 cartridge tank can be seen within the lower fuselage. Photo below: Assembly requires a little attention to alignment, wing setting. Note how wing incidence is checked out. It’s important.


one over the other using Saran Wrap as a separator. When finished, gently pop apart with a table knife. Mark a left and right side with pencil for cabane strut reference lines. Pin fuselage keel directly over plan, position A-B and C using a triangle to as- sure parallelism, then Hot Stuff to place. The two sides can now be placed and Hot Stuffed to the keel and bulkheads. Pull the tail posts together using the top view as a guide. Hot Stuff tail posts then add ¹⁄₁₆-inch square cross members. Remove assembly from plan, add A-A through E, ¹⁄₁₆-inch square stringers; install engine, tank, and card stock cowl (do not cut out cockpit un- til later). The tank can be Hot Stuffed to the fuselage side reaching in from the un- covered bottom. Bend landing gear to out- line on the plan, place onto the ¹⁄₃₂-inch ply former, wrapping with carpet thread and then Sig Bond. Do not install! Build up cowl around the engine at this point. The card stock is just old ordinary 5×4


recipe card or debator note cards. It Hot Stuffs beautifully to place. The engine cowl is made with ¹⁄₈ × ¹⁄₄-inch balsa strip built up around the engine. A piece of ¹⁄₄-inch sheet is cut to clear engine top, then the ¹⁄₄- inch sheet nose block is drilled to clear the “timer” and shaft, and Hot Stuffed to the strip frame. Use a sanding block to fair into fuselage. The whole process takes only a few minutes. Remember that you don’t need to be concerned with fuel proofing or cooling.


The Empennage Use conventional sticks and pieces con- struction throughout, just keep it flat and


FLYING MODELS 47


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