Cosmeceutical Skin Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . What is a
cosmeceutical? “The word Cosmeceutical was created in the 1990s from the use of the two products used in the terms creation, from cosm(etic) + (pharma)ceutic,” explains Noireen Carrigg of Carrigg Brady Beauty, distributors of the Dermedique range.
Tracy Tamaris, training director at the International Institute for Anti-Ageing, distributor of Environ Skin Care, continues: “The word cosmeceutical was coined by Dr Albert Kligman, the so called ‘father’ of vitamin
A...and is used to describe a product that contains active ingredients such as vitamins, antioxidants and enzymes.”
It is defined as “Cosmetic products that include ingredients designed not only to enhance the appearance but to also have a positive physiological effect at the cellular level” and “Cosmetic products that satisfy both beauty and health needs”.
“Cosmeceuticals represent the marriage of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals to be used by both doctors and beauty
therapists with the relevant training,” says Noireen. “A cosmetic product claimed to have medicinal or drug-like benefits. Cosmeceutical products are marketed as cosmetics, but have biologically advanced ingredients such as AHAs (alpha hydroxyl acids) and BHAs (beta hydroxyl acids).”
Anne McDevitt, who distributes the Profound skin care range, explains how cosmeceutical ingredients work. “The treatment of specific skin problems through cellular alteration within a given time frame is the goal of a cosmeceutical range,” she says. “The fundamental ingredients will be acid-based although other bio-altering ingredients may be added for a specific action or to balance the formula. In a normal healthy skin, cells will move up to the surface in a regular pattern, as they reach the surface they will slough off into the atmosphere revealing fresh new cells.
“Most skin care problems involve an abnormal cellular build up, whether due to illness, poor skin care, sun damage or hormonal changes. Cellular turnover slows down and a ‘bottle neck’ of unhealthy dead cells occurs. While oil is
glossary of some key Cosmeceutical ingredients Ageraline
Ageraline is an active botanical and Phyto-active ingredient obtained by hydroglycolic extraction from the leaves of Ageratum. It inhibits membrane protein (SNARE complex) to decrease neurotransmitter release, and decreases the release of catecholamines, resulting in a relaxing effect on muscles, similar to that of Botox™.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
AHAs are good for reducing the thickening of the Stratum Corneum and the newer generation AHAs also have a major, visible plumping effect.
Colostrum
Colostrum contains growth factors to stimulate normal growth as well as healing and repair of aged or injured skin, muscle, and other tissues. Colostrum assists to reduce the visible signs of UV-induced ageing by promoting the synthesis of pro-collagen 1 as well as protecting the junction between dermis and epidermis by increased production of laminin, the second most common structural protein in the body after collagen.
Dermaxyl
Dermaxyl (Palmitoyl Oligopeptide) rehydrates the skin by improving the ceramide activity in the skin, assisting in the prevention of DNA damage and reduces sun-damaged cells. It helps ‘plump’ up and smooth the skin, reducing the depth of wrinkles and fine lines.
produced in to this bottleneck a ‘mortar’ develops. This wall of dead cells coupled with debris accumulates due the skin’s inability to behave in a healthy way. In all of these instances a good quality low pH glycolic acid unblocks the bottleneck to renew cellular turnover and return the skin to balanced health.”
Cosmeceutical products are generally used to treat and prevent acne, ageing, rejuvenation and hyperpigmentation. “Cosmeceuticals are in the frontline for treating major skin concerns such as pigmentation and sun damage, red veins and capillary damage, ageing issues such as uneven skin, fine lines and wrinkles and general skin rejuvenation, as well as congestion and acne type skins,” says Noireen.
Tracy adds: “Scarring can be alleviated to a degree but results are better when enhanced penetration techniques such as sonophoresis and micro-needling are used in combination with cosmeceuticals.”
Turn the page to see a round-up of some of the Cosmeceutical Skin Care systems available...
Epigallocatechin Gallate
Pure Epigallocatechin Gallate, the active ingredient in Green Tea possibly the most powerful antioxidant available, assists in reducing the appearance of sun damage.
Hexapeptide 8
Hexapeptide 8 reduces the depth of the wrinkles in the face caused by the contraction of the muscles of facial expression, especially in the front and around the eyes.
Lycopene
Powerful antioxidant Lycopene slows the process of the visible signs of ageing. It is more than 100 times more effective than vitamin E and twice as powerful as beta-carotene.
Matrixyl
Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3) is a synthetic combination of five natural amino acids, which acts just as effectively as retinol, but has the advantage of not inducing skin irritations or reactions. It stimulates the DNA of the fibroblasts to build more collagen and elastin fibres.
Palimitoyle Oligopeptide
Palimitoyle Oligopeptide stimulates collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesis, and reinforces the epidermis and increases thickness.
Tripeptide 1 & Tripeptide 10
Tripeptide 1 and Tripeptide 10 boost collagen synthesis, uniforms fibril diameter and spacing, and inhibits enzymatic destruction.
Vitamin A
Vitamin A is scientifically valued for its effect at molecular level. Vitamin A not only slows down ageing, but may even reverse some signs of ageing.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C has both protective antioxidant and collagen producing properties. A stable, oil soluble form of vitamin C (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) acts as a powerful antioxidant in the prevention of UV-induced cell damage, and minimises pigmented blemishes.
Vitamin E
Oil soluble antioxidant vitamin E effectively quenches free radicals, protects collagen and assists in making the skin look younger.
Peptides
Peptides are a form of protein that is the right molecular size to penetrate into the skin. They rebuild the skin structure working on the collagen and elastin cells which help with skin ageing concerns.
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