The Falklands Spirit
Simon Veness casts his eye over the fast-growing South Atlantic destination of the Falkland Islands
R
aw and unspoilt are two of the first words many visitors use to describe the sure-but-subtle lure of one of cruising’s most far-flung
outposts. They could also add charming, wildlife-
rich, surprising, inspiring and oh-so- terribly British. Most people know it as an obscure and possibly outlandish collection of isles “somewhere down there,” but the cruise world is rapidly coming to know it as a burgeoning tourist haven, a unique and blossoming stop on the South Ameri- can and Antarctic routes.
Situated 400 miles off the south-eastern
tip of Argentina and with more than 740 islands, it fully earns its remote and rug- ged reputation, carved out over countless millennia by a harsh weather regimen that relents for a few months each year during the Austral summer. The geography alone is a good reason to visit, nature’s own craggy theme park, full of precipitous cliffs, ancient volcanic remains and eye-achingly open vistas with hardly a hint of human intervention. And then there is the wildlife – LOTS of wildlife. With more than 227 species
48 WORLD OF CRUISING I Winter 2010 / 2011
of identified birds (including several of the world’s largest endangered breeding colonies), as well as whales, dolphins, elephant seals, sea lions and the seemingly ever-present penguins, it is no wonder National Geographic rates this as one of its top island destinations worldwide. In fact, it could easily be a rival to the famous Galapagos Islands themselves in terms of the variety and individuality of the flora and fauna, not to mention the richness. For, while the Falklands number around 3,000 human inhabitants, there are in the region of 800,000 black-browed albatross and 770,000 penguins!
Top Wildlife Locations There is no shortage of places in the Falklands to spot great wildlife. December marks an extremely active time as many bird species – including gentoo, Magel- lanic and rockhopper penguins – welcome their young into the world. Elephant and sea lion pups will also be bumbling along the shorelines waiting to be fed. It’s one of the most exciting times on the islands and a perfect time to visit. Here are the highlights:
King penguins – Volunteer Point, East
Falkland: situated 2½ hours from Stanley, and accessible only in a 4x4, this seclud- ed, peaceful spot is home to the world’s largest and most accessible king penguin colony in the world. The regal birds have an 18-month breeding cycle so there is always something to see. Killer whales – Sea Lion Island: just five miles long and a mile wide, this is not only the place to spot its namesake, but regular pods of killer whales circle every Decem- ber. Coming close to the shore, Sea Lion Island provides the best location in the Falklands to spot these amazing mammals. Visitors can also stay to explore the area on foot at Sea Lion Island Lodge. Cobb’s wren – Carcass Island: in its
100 years of habitation, Carcass Island has had only three owners. Care has been taken to ensure the island is mouse, cat and rat free – making it the perfect spot to see the endemic Cobb’s wren, a tiny bird that can be identified from its jumbled call of whistles and trills. Elephant seals – Kelp Point, East Falkland: just 1½ hours from Stanley, this is one of the most diverse areas in the islands and the
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