COVER STORY
comfortable. There is a shower and plenty of storage for the essential bulky parkas and rubber boots. During my journey, my 71 fellow passengers included singles, couples and adult family groups. Ages ranged from 7 to 89. The majority came from across Canada, with Britain, the US, France, Austria and Australia also represented.
Polar Bear On the Starboard Bow! The key to a successful expedition cruise is flexibility. With no ports or excursions set in stone, Captain Alexander Pokhilets could – and did – change landing sites daily. Much depended upon weather conditions. Though we were blessed with calm seas, tides, fog and ice did impact our course. After sailing across Ungava Bay to the southern shores of Baffin Island without stop, by Day Three we were anxious for close encounters of the wildlife kind. Eager for adventure, we took turns hopping into the Zodiacs even before breakfast. We motored around Hantzsch Island to watch some 16,000 murres soaring, nesting and prodding chicks to fly off steep cliffs. The black and white birds, called the penguins of the north, are able to fly both above and below water. Michael Shepard, our ornithologist, delighted in pointing out kit- tiwakes, glacous gulls and jet-black ravens. That afternoon, the Zodiac excursion left for Monumental Island in a fog so thick, the ship Orlova quickly faded from view. Fortunately, the sun suddenly broke through. “We’ve got our first bear!” At the Zodiac driver’s excited cry, everyone began scanning the rocky cliffs. The resting polar bear slowly raised its head and sniffed the air. Sensing we were not a threat, the bear continued to snooze. We reluctantly moved on, hoping to find a seal or walrus. On Day Four, expedition leader David Gray
awakened us with the lure of a massive iceberg looming ahead. According to David, there are 10,000 icebergs in Davis Strait at any given time. Most originate in Greenland and drift south-west toward Baffin Island. The afternoon brought a lecture on Arctic plants,
while the captain maneuvered into Sunshine Fjord. The landing would be our first opportunity to step ashore. Once on land, passengers formed two groups, one for a long uphill hike while the rest of
INUIT IMMERSION
The close Inuit connection sets Cruise North apart from other ships exploring the Arctic. Created in part to promote and maintain native culture, the Inuit-owned and operated cruise line began sailing in Canada’s distant northern regions in 2005. Itineraries focus on Nunavit, Quebec,
and Nunavut, an Inuit territory carved out of the vast Northwest Territories in 1999. Cruise North began its Inuit Youth
Trainee Programme in 2006. Depending on the itinerary, four to eight college-age trainees from northern communities are on board. Their task is to shadow members of the crew, learning the ropes on both the hotel and expedition side. They may drive the Zodiacs, handle rifles or help manage house- keeping. Those who continue for a second season choose a single job speciality. To date, the trainee programme has produced inspiring success
stories. Jason Annahatak, who holds a master’s degree in psychology,
entered the programme in 2006 and now works for the cruise line year-round.
When not helping to develop tours and community visits, he sails
aboard as expedition leader. College graduate Jenna Andersen progressed from trainee to assistant expedition leader in three seasons. Her presentations to passengers on traditional Inuit lifestyle, language and legends come from personal experience living in Makkovik, Labrador. She says: “I grew up snow-shoeing and hunting seals. In one lifetime, Inuits have gone from igloos to the Internet.” Jenna, a 21st-century woman who skipped the igloo phase, spotted her Cruise North position on the Internet.
Winter 2010 / 2011 I WORLD OF CRUISING
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