COVER STORY
regions in the world, albeit one that suffers from the creeping blight of heavy salmon farming, which does great damage to the local eco-systems. We never ventured out without seeing plenty of dolphins, including the endemic species and the lively Peall’s dolphin. Sea-lion colonies were another regular feature, along with idly-fl oating penguins, the occasional soaring albatross and great fl ocks of cormorants. Sadly, we were just a week too early for whale season, but the mighty Blue whale and humpback are usually regular visitors to these waters. When we took to the land, either trekking through the jungle or hiking over the wide open tundra of the altiplano – the edge of the high plains – we discovered incredible native fl owers and other plants so delicate and specialised they could be seen only under a magnifying glass, along
THE NOMADS CREW
Everyone works incredibly hard on the Atmosphere, often from 5.30 in the morning cleaning and prepping for the day’s adventures. With the ship catering for both the wildlife group and fi shermen, there was always a multiplicity of activities,
with everything revolving around either the helicopters or Zodiacs. The logistics are all worked out in advance, like some kind of military operation that remains mostly unseen but produces effortless results day after day. On one occasion they had to change plans – and equipment – THREE times in the space of a few hours as the weather steadfastly refused to cooperate. But they always came up trumps with expeditions and excursions that were at once memorable and immensely enjoyable.
ceremony. Nearby, the Mercado Central fi sh and produce market exudes ‘local fl avour’, with lunch at El Galeon a must-try experience.
Nestled up close to the Andes, Centro Artesanal Los Dominicos is the place to fi nd local art, textiles and handicrafts in a relaxed, village-style setting, dotted with charming cafes and courtyards. For somewhere to stay, we thoroughly recommend the Ritz-Carlton in Santiago’s prestigious El Golf neighborhood as it makes a comfortable base for touring the city, a peaceful retreat in classic formal style. Raise a glass of crisp Chilean wine in
Wine 365 before indulging in the exceptional Mediterranean cuisine of Adra, all with the 5-star quality expected from the hotel whose name is synonymous of the fi nest hospitality. Once you’ve had your fi ll of the city, travel an hour south to the ultra-modern Monticello Grand Casino & Entertainment World, South America’s largest casino resort, positively dripping with splendid indulgence. Whimsical Chihuly chandeliers, seductive Fête chocolates and the chic O’Higgins Wine Shop add to the indulgence. The massive arcade and fun center, shopping and dining district and outrageously comfortable guest rooms ensure everyone is well catered for. Don’t miss a trip into wine country for a tour of Colchagua Valley’s renowned vineyards. Here, Viu Manent – one of the country’s top boutique wine-
makers – is especially evocative, from the moment you park under their grape arbor, lush with fruit, to the fi rst sip of heady Carmenere or sweet,
to repairing and renewing. They may have been shaken but, in typical Chilean style, it was just an opportunity to make a good thing even better.
summery sauvignon blanc. Compliment your wine tasting with a
gourmet lunch at its European-inspired La Llaveria restaurant then delve deeper into the process of winemaking on a horse- drawn carriage ride of the vineyards and the processing, bottling and storage facility. February’s earthquake did have an impact on central Chile, with some damage to both Monticello and Viu Manent. However, these setbacks were met with dedication and determination
Summer 2010 I WORLD OF CRUISING
23
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