COVER STORY
Simon and Susan Veness travel to the far reaches of Chile with a unique operator, and discover a region full of magnifi cent, untouched desolation
the Nomads Way Y
our fi rst sight of the Andes is not so much breathtaking as mind- numbing – your brain registers what it’s seeing but completely
rst sight of the A d Andes ndes iis not
fails to comprehend the vastness and immensity of the vista that is opening up in front of you. Welcome to Chile! This is a part of the world where you need to take your vocabulary several notches past spectacular; go straight past awe-inspiring without stopping; fi nd something far bigger than colossal; and conjure up something more meaningful than beautiful. Add it all together and you have Chilean Patagonia. We were here to check out one of the newest and most innovative cruise operations that has come to our notice at World of Cruising, a small-scale, deluxe and highly individual adventure option that promised a wildlife extravaganza as well as the up-close-and-personal experiences the big ships just can’t deliver. Nomads of the Seas exceeded our expectations in every way imaginable. It all began with the long fl ight from Miami to Santiago, courtesy of national airline LAN, and then the short 90-minute
18 WORLD OF CRUISING I Summer 2010
hop from the Chilean capital to the southern port of Puerto Montt, the offi cial gateway to Patagonia. The fi rst surprise was the slick, modern airport at both stopping points, as well as the smooth, effi cient service on our fi rst foray into South America. It certainly wasn’t the last. Our introduction at Nomads’ own little cruise ‘terminal’ in Puerto Montt (a rustic two-storey house, complete with showers and lounge, at a small fi shing marina) was hugely promising. Carolina made us welcome, ensured we had drinks and pointed us to the enticing lunch buffet prepared by the ship’s chefs. Comfy armchairs and sumptuous coffee-table picture-books of our destination added to the sense of anticipation. There was even Wi-Fi (for the last time before we set out – this is not a trip for anyone who needs to stay in touch with the outside world). We also got to meet our fellow
travellers, another 26 like-minded folk who hailed from as far afi eld as South Africa, Brazil and California, as well as a Chilean family taking advantage of their ‘local’ cruise line. This is not a mass-market experience. The staff outnumber the guests (32 to 28) and everything is designed on as
near a one-to-one basis as makes no difference, from your early-morning beverage to every meal and excursion. Roughly half the passenger complement were there for the Ultimate Fly-Fishing Adventure, on the many pristine lakes and rivers, while the other half of us had signed up for the Wildlife Adventure, with its bewitching array of ‘soft’ outdoor expedi- tions, from kayaking to hiking and rafting. And then there was the ship. The 150ft MV Atmosphere is no ordinary vessel. In fact, she’s no ordinary anything, a one-of-a-kind design that incorporates two helicopters, an array of Zodiac infl atables
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