lifestyle travel Stack Rock Fort
Fancy going so far into the extremities of Wales, you leave dry land entirely? How does the perilous remains of a 19th-century fort off the Milford Haven coast grab you? Well, it’s got the Antonia LeVay seal of approval at any rate…
When you get a message from your mate saying, “I’ve booked us on an overnight trip to a Napoleonic fort in the middle of the sea,” the only response can be “when we going?” and quickly go into overdrive searching for cashmere socks, silk kaftan, lavender eyepatches and strappy heels. On a more practical note, given Stack Rock is a derelict fort, walking boots, sleeping bag, thermal leggings and a woolly hat are the essential requirements.
After the initial R&D into the Stack Rock Fort experience, it became apparent very quickly that there were a multitude of potential hazards: dark corridors, crumbling masonry, gaping holes in the floor; no windows, doors, running water, lighting or even spa facilities. What it does have is a fascinating history and a secure future ahead of it, thanks to the new owners – a community interest company helmed by Phil Hedley – who offer day trips and overnight stays to the adventurous and curious, in exchange for donations to the fort.
Stack Rock Fort was originally a three-gun fort, built in 1852 to protect the harbour against attacks from the sea. Disarmed in 1929, it was sold in 1932 for £160 and changed hands in 2005 for £150,000. In 2020, it was sold again – for £191,000 this time – and is now operating as a CIC as well as being a Grade 2 listed building.
The first leg of our trip was taken by boat – from Milford Haven, courtesy of the Pembrokeshire boat charters. Skippered by Dave and Rich, the pair regularly operate back and forth between Stack Rock and mainland, taking day trippers and occasional overnight stayers. Most recently, the Wonders Of The Celtic Deep team stayed at the fort while filming for the series.
We arrived at high tide, which involved a mere step from the boat onto the jetty. Low tide, on the other hand, is a wrestling match with a ladder and a small boat. Bags unloaded, we were introduced to Phil – Stack Rock mainman and our guide, too – who explained the dos and
donts before proffering the very important disclaimer to sign. With that, we were left to explore our new home for the next 24 hours, so off we went in readiness (head torches and sturdy boots are a must) for some serious exploration.
As one can expect from a structure left to rot for more than a few years, it wasn’t in the best of states – but this only adds to the experience. Pigeons flying out of the structure, dead birds aplenty left behind, we continued our quest in search of some eerie and terrifying finds, hopeful for a smattering of ghostly apparitions. Nothing. What we did find was impressive architecture, incredible views, and the exploration of a piece of history.
Following the evening barbecue, also supplied by Phil, we settled for games with the other ‘crazy’ habitants for the night. Being a circular fort, the open spaces became an amphitheatre which offered a natural acoustic space; guided by Phil we sang our hearts out in unison to
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