food&drink reviews
ALEX GOOCH
45 Whitchurch Road, Cardiff.
alexgoochbaker.com
Hay-On-Wye might be best known for its numerous bookshops and annual literary festival, but since Alex Gooch set up his bakery there in 2008, he’s grown his business significantly. The list of stockists on both sides of the border continues to lengthen and a dedicated outlet in Cardiff’s Kings Road Yard has been serving customers for some time – but his new fully-fledged café with indoor seating on Whitchurch Road takes things to another level.
When we visit, there are only a couple of sandwich options and one type of pizza on offer. A shame, given that it’s a golden opportunity to showcase the individual qualities of the many varieties of bread on sale to take away. We duly snaffle the last three focaccia sandwiches – enormous wedges of herb-and-salt-encrusted bread filled with a winning combination of pepperoni, pesto, rocket and smoked gouda. Gooch being a man of noble principle, everything is not only organic
but vegan too. Not that you’d know, mind – the plant-based pepperoni deserves an Oscar, so convincing is its portrayal of meat.
The cronc – a kind of pastry muffin – delivers a warming hit of cinnamon, the custard in the doughnut is exceptional, and doughy, pastry-like Breton confection the kouign-amann is far easier to demolish in a matter of seconds than it is to pronounce. All eyes are on the chocolate croissant, though. As Pettigrew regulars, we’re artisanal croissant connoisseurs. Going up against their magnificent golden monstrosities with an effort containing no butter seems like trying to win an arm-wrestling contest with both of your arms tied behind your back. Against the odds, though, it holds its own – a triumph of dark chocolate and dark arts.
A welcome addition to a street that already boasts some excellent local indies, and with another café set to open across town in Lakeside, the growth of Gooch’s business shows no signs of slowing down.
BEN WOOLHEAD
GEM 42
42 Bridge Street, Newport. 01633 287591 /
gem42.co.uk
Gem 42 wears its ambitions on its sleeve. They call their food “art cuisine” – and based on what we found, it’s hard to argue.
A recently awarded third AA rosette makes Gem 42 a rarity in south Wales, putting it ahead of any Cardiff neighbour. It’s the same accolade given to Oxwich Bay’s Beach House and The Walnut Tree in Abergavenny, both of which hold a Michelin star. Clearly, twins Sergio and Pasquale Cinotti are doing something special.
There’s theatre here. Three varieties of tomato, each cooked a different way, are combined and powerfully concentrated – ‘tomatoes on toast’ done with such style you can’t help but smile as the flavour hits. Cauliflower is cooked at precisely 72°C for exactly 1,000 minutes until it turns black, revealing deep umami richness. Or a wagyu fat candle which drips aromatic fat over jet-black sourdough. Touches like this are everywhere, even among the supporting cast.
Each main is presented with a flourish. There’s lobster with a boldly flavoured bisque, the meat sweet and teamed with the earthier tastes of truffle and carrot, or what looks like an egg but is revealed as scallop meat shaped around a barely-set yolk. It’s an audacious bit of visual trickery, something that plays with expectations. Lamb is a highlight: a crisp little cylinder stuffed with braised Welsh shoulder and leg, and a rosy piece of loin. It’s the least flamboyant plate of the night, and absolutely lovely: an outstanding piece of cooking, the most beautifully judged piece of lamb I have eaten in years.
To finish, a chocolate cigar is lit at the table: a brief flash, edible ash and a memorable meal draws to a close. Gem 42 dazzles with its wit and inventiveness. Newport has a remarkable restaurant it should be proud of.
JONATHAN SWAIN 43
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